A note on authorship: This article was updated in January 2024 with contributions from seven expert photographers: Darren Rowse, Jim Hamel, Jeremy Flint, Alex Morrison, Amar Ramesh, Nisha Ramroop, and Jaymes Dempsey.

If you’ve ever stood in front of a stunning vista, camera in hand, and wondered how to capture its grandeur, you’re not alone. Every great landscape image includes a great composition, but understanding what composition is, what it does, and how you can use it to improve your scenic shots can be intensely daunting.

Fortunately, landscape photography composition isn’t as challenging as it might seem. And in this article, I break it all down for you. I start with the basics, then I continue on to share 17 effective landscape photography composition tips so that you can start creating beautiful images. as soon as possible.

Specifically, you’ll discover:

• How to draw the viewer straight into the scene (and keep them wanting more!)
• How to position your horizons for maximum dynamism and balance
• A simple trick for minimalistic landscape shots
• A cool technique to focus the viewer exactly where you want them
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to take your landscape compositions to the next level, let’s dive right in!

What is composition in landscape photography?

You’ve likely heard the term “composition” thrown around a lot, but what does it really mean? Composition involves the thoughtful arrangement of elements within your frame. For landscape photographers, it’s all about where to place the horizon, what to include in the foreground, and what should occupy your background.

When determining a landscape photo composition, you’ll often need to ask yourself a handful of key questions:

• What should my main subjects(s) be?
• Where should I position them in the frame?
• Does the scene have plenty of depth?
• Have I removed all distractions from the shot?
• Did I choose a good angle to showcase the landscape?

When you’re just getting started, it can be helpful to mentally run through a checklist before you capture each shot. Before you know it, however, you’ll be setting up your shots without even having to think twice.

The importance of mastering landscape composition

Mastering composition isn’t just for show. It serves a bigger purpose: to create images that captivate your audience. What makes an image engaging? The answer often lies in how well you’ve positioned the different elements within the frame.

A well-composed landscape shot typically has a balanced feel, and you can frequently sense the depth, almost as if you could step right into the picture. Good compositions often add dynamism to your photos; the arrangements guide the viewer’s eyes, making them linger on the details you want to emphasize.

The bottom line is that the better your compositional skills, the more striking your photos will be. If you’re just getting started with landscape photography, all this may seem a bit overwhelming, but don’t worry: landscape photographers have developed plenty of easy-to-apply techniques that work great for snappers of all levels, and they don’t require any technical wizardry to pull off!

17 tips to improve your landscape photography compositions

You know all about what landscape composition is and why it’s important. Now let’s take a deep dive into the approaches you can use to create beautiful results, including basic guidelines like the rule of thirds and leading lines as well as more advanced techniques such as patterns and color harmonies.

1. Include a main subject to engage the viewer

To instantly level up your landscape compositions, here’s how you should start:

By including a clear, identifiable subject in each photo.

The subject can be anything: a rock. A mountain. A river. A shell on the beach. Waves crashing on the shore. Lightning in the sky.

The point is to include at least one element in your photo that a viewer can latch onto – something that sucks them into the frame and piques their interest. Otherwise, the viewer will become confused. They won’t know where to focus, so they’ll move on to a different image and never look back.

Is it okay to include multiple interesting subjects? Absolutely! In fact, many landscape photographers these days like to pack both a foreground subject and a background subject into a single photo. But make sure the subjects complement one another and be careful not to include so many subjects that the viewer no longer has a place to focus. When in doubt, keep it simple.

2. Use the rule of thirds to position your key elements

The rule of thirds is one of my favorite landscape composition tools. It’s a great way for beginners to get started with composition, and it gives you an easy way to arrange key elements within the frame (e.g., your main subject, your horizon, and other supporting elements).

If you’re unfamiliar with the rule of thirds, here’s a quick explanation:

The rule of thirds tells you to split your composition into vertical and horizontal thirds so you end up with a series of gridlines (displayed below). To create the most powerful compositions, you should place compositional elements along those gridlines and at their intersection points.

This often comes into play when working with horizon lines. Instead of putting the horizon smack-dab in the center of the frame, you can put it along the top rule of thirds gridline (a good idea if your foreground is especially interesting) or along the bottom rule of thirds gridline (a good idea if your sky is colorful or dramatic).

For this image, the blowing sand in the foreground is stunning – so the photographer chose to put the horizon along the upper gridline:

You can also use the rule of thirds to position your main subject. You might put the subject along one of the vertical gridlines, or – even better – at an intersection point. The rule of thirds gridline intersections are sometimes referred to as power points because they create such compelling compositions.

A quick word of caution, though:

The rule of thirds is a helpful technique. But despite the name, it’s not a landscape composition rule. Rather, it’s a guideline, so you don’t need to follow it all the time. Instead, use it when it works, and break it when it doesn’t.

Make sense?

3. Use foreground interest to create depth

Most landscape photos, even the mediocre ones, include background interest (such as a distant mountain, a dramatic sunset, or a house on a cliff).

But if you want to really take your landscapes to the next level, I highly recommend including foreground interest, which should sit somewhere between your camera and the background. (This is also referred to as the near-far composition technique.)

It’s a powerful tool, one that’s insanely popular among today’s professional landscape photographers. Check out the work of popular landscape shooters on Instagram or 500px, and you’ll see thousands of stunning near-far compositions featuring:

• Foreground logs and background waterfalls
• Foreground rocks and background sunsets
• Foreground flowers and background mountains

And the reason this technique is so popular? It helps create the illusion of depth in a scene.

For instance, a photo of a distant mountain can look nice, but it often appears flat.

But add some flowers or grass close to the camera, and the whole composition immediately deepens. The viewer first focuses on the foreground grass, then moves into the midground, and then finally sees the stunning mountain in the background:

So the next time you find a beautiful background subject, like the mountain I mentioned above…

…take a few moments to look for foreground interest. Then include both foreground and background in a single shot. (It can also help to use a wide-angle lens and get down low; that will magnify the foreground element and make it loom large in the frame, sucking the viewer right in.)

Note that the foreground interest can be a discrete subject, like a patch of grass. Or, as I discuss in the next tip, it can be a linear element that leads the eye into the frame:

4. Use leading lines to suck the viewer into the scene

Leading lines are lines that draw the viewer into the scene. They generally start in the foreground of the composition, then move back, back, back…until they reach a distant subject.

In the photo below, the road acts as a leading line, which moves the viewer toward the beautiful sunset:

The road isn’t really a discrete subject, but it does provide foreground interest, and it moves the viewer toward the background.

By the way, you can make leading lines out of pretty much anything. I highly recommend you take a look at some of your favorite landscape photography and see how it incorporates leading lines; you’ll find all sorts of creative compositions with lines created out of roads, rivers, fallen trees, ferns, lines in the dirt, and much, much more.

5. Change your angle for a unique perspective

This one’s a simple composition trick that works for pretty much any type of photography:

If you feel like you’re starting to capture the same old images over and over again, put some real effort into picking your angle.

Most beginner landscape photographers shoot at eye level. But while you can certainly get great images that way, it often pays to go beyond the standing shot. Try getting down low over a foreground element; it’ll create extra depth, plus it’ll help draw the viewer into the frame.

Alternatively, find a vantage point and get up high. (A drone can be hugely useful here!) From an elevated perspective, the scene will look far more abstract, and you’ll capture stunning images that convey the incredible scope of the landscape.

You can also carefully adjust your angle to block out distracting elements and create interesting framing opportunities (see below!). Sometimes, a couple of steps to the right or the left is all it takes to create a stunningly original composition.

6. Photograph with a tripod

I can’t stress enough how valuable a tripod can be for landscape photography, not just to capture sharp images but also for composition.

You see, when you set up a tripod, you’re forced to slow down – and when you’re not rushing, you naturally pay more attention. You notice how the foreground plays against the backdrop. You start to scrutinize the edges of your frame. Are there any distractions that need to be eliminated? What about gorgeous elements that lie just outside the frame but could look great as part of the shot?

You might think that tripods are a hassle, and in a way, you’re right. They’re bulky and setting them up takes time. But in the context of composition, a tripod can be a game-changer. The level of deliberation it encourages will inevitably elevate the quality of your work.

Therefore, even when you have enough light to shoot sharp handheld shots, I strongly recommend using a tripod for the sake of better compositions!

7. Use lots of negative space to create minimalist landscape compositions

These days, minimalism is all the rage in landscape photography. Here’s how it works:

First, find a scene full of negative space. (Negative space refers to “empty” areas in the composition, like a long stretch of blue sky, a swathe of green grass, a smooth, barren beach, etc.)

Second, find a small, isolated, lonely-looking subject, like a tree in a field, a rock jutting out from a flat landscape, or even a person.

Third, position your isolated subject so it’s small in the frame, and it’s surrounded by plenty of negative space. Here, it often pays to break the rule of thirds; instead of putting your subject at a rule of thirds intersection point, you put it closer to the edge of the frame, which serves to emphasize the emptiness.

You’ll end up with an attention-grabbing shot, one that feels both contemporary and timeless.

8. Don’t be afraid to go tight

Most photographers do landscape photography with wide-angle lenses. And in general, this works really well; you can capture the vastness of the scene while emphasizing foreground and background subjects.

That said…

It sometimes pays to zoom in tight using a telephoto lens (a 70-200mm or 100-400mm will do a good job).

This works especially well on relatively flat subjects with graphic lines: a distant waterfall, cracks in a canyon wall, overlapping mountains. Zooming in will compress the scene, so advice about adding depth tends to fly out the window, and that’s okay.

Instead, focus on using landscape compositional tools like the rule of thirds to create balance and flow. And as I emphasized at the beginning of this article, make sure to include a clear point of interest!

9. Use layers to help simplify the scene

Layers are one of my absolute favorite landscape photography composition techniques because they make scenes simpler, easily digestible, and all-around beautiful.

When you’re out with your camera, just look for a clear bottom layer, middle layer, and top layer (though adding more layers is fine, too!).

One of the great things about layered compositions is that they work regardless of your focal length or subject of interest. You can create layered wide-angle shots by incorporating clear foregrounds, midgrounds, and backgrounds into the composition.

And you can create layered telephoto shots by compressing distant elements (as I mentioned in the previous tip, overlapping mountains look great, but you can also layer trees, sand dunes, and more).

Not every composition is amenable to layering. But when you find a scene with repeating or overlapping elements, that’s a good sign you can get a layered shot – and when possible, I recommend you go for it!

10. Incorporate diagonal lines to add movement

This one’s a more advanced landscape composition tool, and the effect can be subtle – but when done right, it can level up a good photo to a great one.

You see, diagonal lines are an effective way to move the eye around the scene and add flow to a shot. They’ll carefully push the viewer toward the main subject, while also prompting them to have a fun little journey around your photo.

To get started, I’d recommend first identifying your main subject. This should be the focal point of your image, and the place you want the diagonal lines to lead.

Then walk around, looking for potential diagonals that point toward – not away! – from your subject. You’ll often need to get creative. Consider all your options: paths, lines of trees, fences, rivers, a shadow, even clouds!

Finally, compose your photo, including at least one diagonal line moving toward your subject (and feel free to use two, three, or four lines if you can find them).

Note that diagonal lines can be foreground leading lines, but they don’t have to be. It’s perfectly acceptable to find a diagonal line that starts far off in the distance as long as it moves toward your main subject.

11. Use geometry, especially triangles, to add flow and stability

In landscape photography, geometry is your friend.

Specifically, you can incorporate shapes, such as triangles, squares, and circles, into your compositions. These will help create both flow and stability, plus they just look very cool (especially when done with subtlety!).

For instance, consider the triangle, one of the most powerful shapes available to the landscape photographer. It includes diagonal lines and therefore adds plenty of movement. It also tends to be very stable thanks to its strong edges and wide base.

Circles are great, too – partial circles create nice curves for plenty of flow. And complete circles create eye-catching points of interest.

You don’t need to find full shapes in the landscape, by the way. It’s okay to use a somewhat circular rock, a vaguely triangular mountain, and so on. The point is to include shape-like elements when you can, without stressing too much about whether you have a complete shape or an implied one. That way, you create strong compositions that still feel natural.

Also, remember: When it comes to working with geometry in landscape photography composition, there are no hard and fast rules as to what works well. You can look for single bold shapes, you can look for multiple shapes that are similar, or you can look for several opposite shapes. Play around, and see what you can create!

12. Find natural frames to focus the viewer

As emphasized earlier in this article, foreground interest is a great way to add depth to landscape compositions.

But sometimes, you run into foreground elements that can’t quite work as a discrete compositional element…

…yet can still sit around the edges of your photo as a frame.

This is the landscape photography framing technique: You include tangential elements around the outside of an image and use them to direct the viewer toward the interesting midground and background.

For instance, you might include an overhanging branch toward the top of the image in order to guide the viewer toward the subject in the middle of the shot:

Or you might find a tunnel of rocks that leads the viewer toward the sunset in the background.

In wide-open spaces, finding frames can be tough. But if you’re shooting in a more chaotic landscape, you can often find trees or rocks to create a frame. In fact, it’s often these simple frames that take a good composition to the next level; they provide much-needed focus by showing the viewer exactly where to look (and when positioned carefully, they can also block out distracting elements).

Pro tip: When working with foreground frames, spend time experimenting with different apertures. A narrow aperture will help you capture lots of detail, while a wide aperture will blur the foreground frame for a cool creative effect.

13. Look for patterns to add compositional coherence

Patterns are instantly eye-catching, they’re a great way to add rhythm to your images, and they help landscape scenes feel more unified.

So whenever you’re out with your camera, keep an eye out for interesting patterns. Some patterns are very conspicuous, so you’ll spot them immediately – for instance, aspen trees standing in a row, or flowers dotting their way toward the horizon.

But other patterns are more subtle, and it’ll take some work to find them. A forest in fall may initially seem chaotic, but if you take the time to really stop and examine the leaves around you, you’ll start to see little runs of color.

Which leads me to another key point: Patterns can be composed of forms (e.g., several trees or rocks) or colors. Don’t restrict yourself to tonal patterns; use patterns of all types!

14. Work each scene before moving on

The world is beautiful and full of landscape photography opportunities – so it’s easy to get in the habit of capturing a quick image of each subject, then packing up and continuing the hunt for more photos.

But if you only ever capture the first composition that you see, you’ll miss out on other breathtaking images (many of which are better than your first attempt).

Instead of taking a single shot, I encourage you to work each scene. Commit to sticking around for a few minutes (or even a few hours). Capture that first shot, yes, but then keep going. Adjust your angle. Find different foreground elements that complement the background and lead the viewer into the scene.

A handy trick here is to walk twenty paces in each direction with your camera to your eye. That way, you can see how the foreground and background elements shift in relation to one another, and you’ll quickly notice other compositional opportunities (such as interesting frames or powerful juxtapositions of foreground and background).

Then, once you feel satisfied you’ve exhausted all possibilities and captured the best possible image, you can move on!

15. Try to portray scale

When you’re photographing gigantic landscape features – mountains, for instance, or oceans – it can be difficult for the viewer to get a sense of how big the elements actually are. And this can be a problem; in my experience, the more you can show scale in a landscape image, the better.

Fortunately, there’s a simple technique that allows you to give your landscape compositions a sense of scale time and time again: include a reference point, something that the viewer is familiar with and can use to gauge the size of the rest of the scene.

Natural reference points include lone trees, flowers, and branches, while human-made reference points include bridges, cars, roads, barns, houses, or even people standing (or walking) in the vicinity. In a pinch, you can even stand in the scene yourself!

16. Don’t forget about color

Color. It’s more than just eye candy in your photos; it’s a powerful tool in your composition arsenal. Often, we get so caught up in lines, shapes, and focal points that we forget the role color plays in our landscape shots. The mood, the emotion, the depth – color affects them all.

As you compose each landscape shot, take a moment to think about the colors present in your frame. Stick with 2-4 main colors to avoid overwhelming the viewer, and when you’re scouting a scene, be on the lookout for complementary colors; think red and green or blue and orange. They sit opposite each other on the color wheel and create a dynamic tension when placed together in a photo. Contrasting colors naturally draw the eye and can make your image pop.

But don’t exclude analogous color combinations, either! These are the colors that are adjacent on the wheel, like shades of blue and green. They create a sense of peace and can often give your photos a deeply tranquil mood.

Note that color, unlike framing, is something you can fine-tune during post-processing. Adjusting the hues or ramping up the saturation can enhance the natural color relationships in your scene, and you should always spend a bit of time working with these elements during photo editing. Of course, for the best results, you should always aim to get the colors right in camera and only use post-processing as a last resort.

17. Break the rules

Don’t feel you have to stick to the compositional rules and guidelines outlined above. As with all rules, they don’t always give the best result, and you can break them successfully!

Sometimes positioning the horizon along the center of the frame can produce a much more eye-catching photo, for instance. Yes, it breaks the rule of thirds, but the result is very powerful. And you can even place your main subject in the center of your frame for some intense symmetry.

Bottom line: Don’t be afraid to try out different compositions and experiment to see what looks best.

Landscape photography composition: final words

By now, you should have a solid understanding of the elements that go into creating a visually stunning and emotionally impactful landscape photo. But remember, the rules and tips are just a framework; the real magic happens when you start to apply your own vision and creativity.

Sure, composition may feel overwhelming at first, especially if you’re just dipping your toes into the world of landscape photography. But here’s the thing: The more you practice, the more intuitive it becomes. And before you know it, you’ll be capturing landscapes that really catch the eye!

Now over to you:

Which of these composition tips is your favorite? Which are you going to try first? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Landscape Photography Composition: 17 Expert Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in December 2023 with contributions from Darren Rowse, Andrew Suryono, Yauhen Zaremba, Simon Bond, Nicholas Moeggenberg, and Christina N Dickson.

Photography contests are a wonderful way to improve your photography. While photography just for the sake of photography is a lot of fun, a competition can help you raise the bar as a photographer; after all, you know your image will be seen by a discerning group of judges and possibly even displayed along with other winners.

Photography competitions come in all shapes and sizes, and they range from small online contests and local competitions in photography clubs to international photography competitions entered by pro photographers.

Having judged and entered my share of photography competitions, I thought I’d write up a few tips for aspiring photographers looking to enter – and win! – photo contests.

1. Find the right photography contest for you

There are hundreds of photography contests out there, but instead of entering them all, find a few contests that you are particularly interested in. Many photo contests are easy and free to enter, while others will charge money, so pay careful attention to this!

Also, look for subject-specific contests. If you feel that your strength is in portraiture, then search the web for “portrait photography contests.” Whatever your strength is, find a handful of contests with that theme or subject type and bookmark them.

And try to vary the contests you enter based on how they are set up. Don’t only enter contests based on visitor votes, for instance; consider a mix of options to maximize your chances.

2. Know and follow the competition rules

While they might be a little boring to read, the terms and conditions of entry to the competition that you’re entering are the place that you need to start when considering if and how to enter.

There are two main reasons for this:

• How will the images be used? – Each competition will use the images submitted differently, and it’s worth considering the implications of this. The first competition that I entered made one of its conditions that they could use the images in pretty much any way that they wanted after the competition. This left a lot of photographers angry when their images started appearing all over the place.
• It can mean the difference between winning and losing – One of the heartbreaking things about being involved in a competition is seeing the many wonderful entries that are submitted incorrectly, and, as a result, are not able to be considered for a prize. Read the rules of the photography competition to see how many shots you can submit, when they need to be in by, what format they should be in, etc. And stick to these guidelines; otherwise, you could well be wasting your time!

3. Stick to the competition theme

This leads us to our next tip, which is an obvious but important one: stick to the theme! I am always amazed when judging competitions by just how many of the images leave a lot to the imagination of judges in terms of how they relate to the theme.

While there is generally room for creativity and interpretation of themes, there’s only so far that a group of judges will allow an image to stray from the indicated theme of the competition.

While it’s always possible to find an image in your archive of shots that fits the theme of a competition, I actually have more luck when I shoot something new with the competition in mind. I not only get better results that way, but it also means I’m taking new images and learning more about photography in the process!

4. Follow the submission guidelines

Pay attention to the image dimension that the contest requires you to submit. Typically, a lot of photo contests are bombarded with image submissions from all over the world, so they only require you to submit a small-resolution version of your image. Make sure to resize your image according to their specifications.

(Some photo contests are so strict that they’ll immediately disqualify your image if it’s not submitted according to their specifications.)

Make sure you pay attention to the submission deadline. Photo contests won’t let you submit images once the deadline has passed. Mark your calendar and set reminders!

5. Do some research

After you’re done going through all the contests’ rules and regulations, it’s time to do some research. You’ll need to research and study previous winners’ work, and you should also study the judges’ work if you want to increase your chances of winning.

By looking through the previous winners’ work, you’ll get a sense of how they won the contest. Pay attention to their use of composition and color; also consider the message that they’re conveying through their photos. Pay close attention to their post-processing approach, and consider how it strengthens their images.

And always remember:

Photography contests are judged by humans. It’s subjective by nature. So by looking at the judges’ work, you’ll get a sense of their style and what kind of images they like. For example, if you find that most judges in the contest capture strong black-and-white images, you’d better think twice before submitted images with bright, saturated, and punchy colors.

6. Pick your images carefully

After you’re done with your research on the previous winners and the judges’ work, you’ll need to select images for submission based on your findings.

Go through your portfolio and see which photos stand a real chance of winning the competition. Be very selective with your work. I know that it can be hard to be self-critical, but doing this will dramatically increase your chance of winning the photo contest.

Pick photos that match three conditions:

First, you should personally think that they are better (or equal to) the previous winners’ photos.

Second, they should match the judges’ style and interests.

Third, they should show your own unique photographic style.

Matching all three of the above criteria can be hard, so just do your best. Then, submit your images, cross your fingers, and wait for good things to happen!

7. Aim for technical brilliance

This should go without saying, but from my experience as a judge, I can only say that many photographers seem to settle for less than their best.

If an image isn’t perfectly focused, exposed well, and composed strongly, don’t submit it. Instead, take another photo (or select a different shot).

Don’t settle for mediocre results, because the judges certainly won’t!

8. Avoid distracting elements

One of the big mistakes that I see in judging photography competitions? The photographer simply has not paid attention to every part of the frame.

Distracting elements pop up in backgrounds and foregrounds, and there can be pops of distracting color that draw the eye and detract from the overall image. It may not seem like much, but scanning your photo for distractions before entering the contest can mean the difference between complete failure and great success.

9. Go for a reaction

As I think back on winning images in the last few competitions that I’ve participated in – both as a judge and as a competitor – it occurs to me that they all do a great job of connecting with those who are viewing the image.

So you should try to do the same! Tell a story, hit people with emotion, do something with a shot that connects with the viewer and evokes some sort of a reaction, whether sadness, happiness, humanity, gloom, or love.

Technically great shots without a soul will leave judges wanting something more. I know that when I’m faced with the choice between the technically perfect file and a shot that is slightly less technically excellent but that connects with me, it’s the latter image that usually gets my vote.

10. Promote your work

If you’ve entered a competition that relies on audience votes to determine the winner, then don’t just hope for the best – instead, encourage people to vote!

The best way to do this is on social networking sites. Copy and paste the link to the contest on your Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, your personal blog, etc., and tell people to vote for your photo. Let them know what the prize is, as well (they’ll be more inclined to help you if they know what they’re helping you win!).

Many people who enter voting contests just submit their photos and check back at the end of the contest to see if they’ve won. Therefore, if you are actively trying to get votes from friends, family, and fans or your work, you have a much greater chance of taking home the prize.

11. Enter another competition

Did you win?

Yes? Build upon your success and enter another one. No? Do try again! The glory of winning a photography competition fades in time – but the lessons that you learn in competing will stick with you forever.

Winning a photo competition: final words

I can’t guarantee that you’ll win any photo competitions, but at the very least, these tips will certainly increase your chances!

Don’t get discouraged if you submit an image and it doesn’t win. Remember that a photography competition is always subjective by nature. If an image doesn’t win one competition, that doesn’t mean it won’t win another. Also, there are plenty of benefits that you can get from joining a photo contest even if you don’t take home the prize.

Follow the guidelines above, enter as many photography contests as you possibly can, and hopefully you’ll win a couple. At the end of the day, it’s a number game!

Finally, keep shooting, and don’t forget to have fun!

The post How to Win a Photography Contest (11 Expert Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in October 2023 with contributions from eight expert photographers: Darren Rowse, Alana Orth, Valerie Jardin, Steve Berardi, Craig Colvin, Darlene Hildebrandt, Simon Bond, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Silhouettes are a wonderful way to convey drama, mystery, emotion, and mood. They often stand out thanks to their simplicity and incredible storytelling capabilities, not to mention the breathtaking colors and shapes.

But creating top-notch silhouette photography can be hard, especially when you’re just starting out – and that’s where this article comes in handy. Below, I share all the essential details for anyone hoping to become a silhouette master, including:

• How to choose the right subject and location
• How to handle different lighting scenarios
• How to choose the best settings
• Creative silhouette photography ideas to get you inspired
• Much more, including in-depth discussions of both portrait silhouette photography and street silhouette photography!

So if you’re ready to discover everything you ever wanted to know about photographing silhouettes, let’s dive right in!

What is silhouette photography?

Silhouette photography is all about capturing subjects so that they lack detail. The focus is on creating striking black shapes against a beautifully exposed background. It’s a technique that emphasizes the shape and form of the subject, resulting in minimalistic and graphic effects:

Silhouettes also allow you to showcase the vibrant colors of the sky behind your subject, adding an extra level of visual impact. Imagine capturing a stunning sunset or sunrise with the silhouette of a tree or a person standing tall against the vivid hues of the sky.

The best part? Silhouette photography is accessible to everyone, regardless of the equipment you own. Whether you’re shooting with a high-end mirrorless model or a smartphone, you can try your hand at capturing these compelling shots, making it an ideal creative outlet for photographers of all levels!

When should you try silhouette photography?

If you’re looking to add some pizzazz to your portfolio or spice up your social media feed, silhouette photography is the way to go. These graphic, eye-catching shots can truly make your work stand out.

I talk a lot about light later on in this article, but in general, sunrise and sunset are like magic hours for silhouette photography. The soft, warm light during these times creates the perfect backdrop for your subjects to take center stage as striking silhouettes. If you already like photographing during the golden hours, then you’re off to a great start.

You can capture silhouettes of pretty much any subject – people, buildings, animals, trees, flowers – given the right light, but they’re not ideal for all occasions. Silhouettes tend to lean towards the artsy side, so if you’re doing more formal photography (e.g., a real-estate photoshoot), you might want to opt for more straightforward shots.

Happily, silhouette photography is not limited to any specific skill level or equipment. Anyone can dive into this captivating genre without breaking the bank or spending hours learning new techniques, so if you’re on the fence about trying out silhouettes, I highly recommend giving it a go. It’s a whole lot of fun, and you never know what magical results you might create. Plus, you’ll have the opportunity to explore a new world of colors and shapes!

Tips and tricks for stunning silhouettes

In this section, we’ll delve into practical tips that will take your silhouette shots to the next level. Get ready to elevate your photography game, starting with:

1. Find a flat or raised location

When it comes to capturing stunning silhouette shots, the location plays a crucial role. The right environment will help you achieve that captivating contrast between your subject and the sky, while the wrong environment will distract the viewer or even prevent you from creating a crisp silhouette.

First and foremost, opt for locations that offer a flat or raised vantage point. Why is this important? Well, silhouettes tend to work best when your subject is framed against the sky, with the dark figure standing out against the bright background.

Beaches are a popular choice for silhouette photography because their flat landscapes make it easy to position your subject against the vast expanse of the sky. The uninterrupted low horizon provides the ideal opportunity to capture the outline of your subject in all its glory. Prairies are another solid option, though you’ll need to be careful to prevent high grasses from obscuring portions of your subject.

But what if you can’t find a flat location nearby? Don’t worry, you can still create captivating silhouettes in areas where your subjects are raised off the ground. Bridges, hills, boardwalks, mountains, and even parking garage roofs can serve as elevated platforms to showcase your silhouetted subjects against the backdrop of the sky.

Pro tip: Crouching down low to the ground can also work wonders, especially when your subject isn’t already raised above you. Don’t be afraid to get dirty!

2. Choose a strong subject

Almost any object can be made into a silhouette. However, some objects work better for silhouettes than others.

I recommend choosing a subject that has a strong and recognizable shape – one that’ll be interesting in its two-dimensional form. Silhouettes can’t draw on colors, textures, and tones to make themselves appealing, so the shape needs to be distinct.

Ask yourself: Can you tell what your subject is simply by seeing its shape? Or does it just look like a blob? Does the shape look eye-catching and interesting, or does it feel relatively boring? (Also, sometimes the things that seem boring during the day can make great subjects for silhouettes – remember that it’s about the shape, not the overall look!)

People make great silhouette subjects, but if they’re doing something interesting – running, jumping, or riding a bike – the shot will look even better. The best silhouette shots often feature props, such as a bike, a basketball, or a skateboard.

3. Find your subject well before sunrise or sunset

Preparation is key in silhouette photography. Timing plays a crucial role, especially if you’re looking to capture the rich colors of sunrise or sunset. You’ll want to identify your subject and set up your shot well in advance.

The sky can change dramatically within a short period. That’s why I recommend being in your chosen location at least 30 minutes before the sun makes its appearance or takes its leave. You should have your camera (and tripod, if you’re using one) set up and ready to go a few minutes before the magic begins, and if you’re working with a model, ask them to arrive a little early and use the extra time to get them prepared for the photoshoot.

And you should also make an effort to stay after the sunrise or sunset. You might think you can predict when the sky will be at its most vivid, but nature often surprises us. Sometimes the most amazing colors appear when you least expect them. So it’s wise to be present for the whole event – before, during, and after the sun crosses the horizon.

(How long should you stick around? At least 30 minutes after the sun has risen or set is a good rule of thumb. This ensures you don’t miss out on any late surprises the sky might have for you.)

4. Make sure your flash is off

Silhouette photograph often involves shooting in dim light (at the start and the end of the day), and most silhouette subjects look pretty dark, too. Therefore, if you have your camera in Auto mode, it may try to turn on the flash, which will ruin the shot.

You see, to capture a silhouette, you need to have as little light as possible on the front of your subject. The goal is to keep the subject dark and the background bright, not the other way around.

So make sure that flash is off! You may need to set your camera to Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode to control the flash (and as I discuss below, these modes are highly useful for silhouette shooting anyway!).

5. Get the light right

Silhouette lighting doesn’t work like normal photographic lighting. To capture a conventional shot, you generally want to ensure that your subject is lit from the front (so that the sun is coming from over your shoulder and striking your subject) or the side (so that the sun is off to your right or left and is striking one half of the subject).

But when you’re shooting silhouettes, you’ll need to reverse this approach. Find the scene’s main light source, then ensure that it’s shining from the back of the subject, not the front. Remember, the goal is to keep the background bright and the subject dark. You don’t need the light to come from directly behind the subject, but the brighter the background, the better.

That’s why it’s easy to create silhouettes at sunrise or sunset; you can position yourself so that you’re shooting into the low sun, and you can frame the dark subject with the bright sky in the background. However, it is possible to capture silhouettes during the middle of the day. You just have to figure out a way to shoot your subject against strong light. For instance, you can:

• Crouch down so that your subjects are framed against the high afternoon sun
• Photograph from below (e.g., folks walking over a bridge)
• Seek out shadowy subjects walking by a brightly lit wall
• Photograph indoors against a bright window

6. Frame your subject with negative space

Even once you’ve chosen the right subject and found the right light, you’ll need to pay careful attention to your composition. The best silhouette shots tend to feature a single subject (or group of subjects) surrounded by empty space, like this:

The empty space (also known as negative space) helps the shot breathe, and it also focuses the viewer on the main subject.

One trick is to shoot when the sky is bright and cloudless; that way, you don’t have to deal with any distracting clouds. You might also try photographing in areas with lots of empty space (e.g., fields, grassy plains, parking lots).

That said, you can also capture fantastic silhouettes that feature more than just a subject plus negative space. Don’t restrict yourself, but do make sure that you only include subjects that contribute to the shot.

7. Prevent shape intersections

If your silhouette composition includes multiple shapes, do your best to keep them separate. A person walking can look great, and a tree can look great, but if the person and the tree overlap, you’ll end up with a confusing mess. The two shapes will merge into one, and the viewer won’t know what’s happening.

Instead, carefully observe the scene and isolate only those shapes that are highly distinct. If you want to include multiple shapes that are currently overlapping, try changing your angle until the shapes separate.

Alternatively, if you’re photographing a moving subject, you can always wait until it changes position.

One related tip: If you’re photographing people, you probably want to silhouette them in profile, not head-on. That way, their features (nose, mouth, and eyes) will be outlined, and they’ll be more recognizable to the viewer.

8. Carefully adjust your exposure for the best results

Most modern cameras are pretty good at exposing photos so that everything is nice and bright. That can cause a problem; after all, you don’t want your subject to turn out nice and bright in a silhouette shot.

So what do you do? You trick your camera.

Simply set the camera to your shooting mode of choice (Aperture Priority can work great for this, but you can try Auto mode, too). Then point your camera at the brightest part of the scene and press the shutter button halfway. On many cameras, this will set the exposure, and as long as you keep the shutter button half-pressed, it’ll remain locked in.

Next, while still partially depressing the shutter button, point your camera at your subject and frame up your composition. Finally, press the shutter button the rest of the way.

With most digital cameras, this will result in a silhouetted subject! Pointing your camera at the bright part of the scene will cause your camera to darken the exposure – and then, when you do take the shot, the main subject will be rendered as a dark silhouette.

Note that some cameras also have a spot metering mode that helps with the above technique. Spot metering causes the camera to set the exposure based on the central part of your frame; with it, you can tell your camera the exact portion of bright background you want to use to determine the exposure. So if you’re not getting the shots you want using the technique discussed above, you can always try switching your metering mode and see if that helps.

9. Try shooting in Manual mode

The technique I discussed above often works well, but if you want even more control over your settings, I’d really recommend shooting in Manual mode.

Manual mode lets you input each and every exposure variable on your own. It can be a little difficult at first, but after a few hours of practice, you’ll get the hang of it.

Once your camera is set to Manual, I’d recommend dialing in a low ISO (100 is a good starting value) and a mid-level aperture (such as f/6.3). Then point your camera at the brightest part of the scene, and adjust the shutter speed until the exposure bar in the viewfinder is balanced.

Take the first shot and review the results on your camera’s LCD. If the image looks too dark, you can always lower the shutter speed, and if the image looks too bright, you can always increase the shutter speed instead.

(If you’re working with very limited light and your shots are turning out dark, you can also widen the aperture or boost the ISO to increase the exposure, but do so sparingly; widening the aperture will limit the area of the photo that’s in focus, while boosting the ISO will add unwanted noise to the image!)

I’d also recommend capturing the same shot using a variety of different exposures – just so you have slightly darker and slightly lighter versions as backup files.

10. Take steps to keep the subject sharp

The best silhouette photograph tends to feature sharp, in-focus subjects.

Unfortunately, this can make the automatic metering process – described in Tip 6 – somewhat tricky. You see, pushing your shutter halfway down to get the metering right also means that your camera will focus on a spot in the background rather than on your subject.

If you’re using the Manual mode shared above, you won’t run into any issues. You can always acquire your exposure settings by pointing your camera at the background, dialing them in, then focusing on your subject. But if you prefer the Auto mode strategy, then you have two options.

First, if your camera offers manual focusing, you can prefocus on your subject. Then, when you meter off the background, the point of focus won’t change. You can effectively frame up your composition before triggering the shutter.

Second, you can try adjusting the aperture to maximize your depth of field (i.e., the amount of your image that is in focus). For this, you’ll need to set a small aperture (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16).

If the f-number is large enough and your subject isn’t too close to the camera, you’ll end up with a sharp subject and a sharp background, even if your camera is focused on the area behind your subject.

11. Look for action

If you’re seeking silhouettes that pop off the screen, think action. A bit of movement can bring a unique layer of interest to your photos. Picture a dancer frozen in mid-leap or a skateboarder executing a trick. These dynamic moments create shapes and lines that captivate your audience.

The key is timing. You’ll want to be ready to click the shutter at just the right moment. Don’t worry; with practice, you’ll get the hang of it (though burst mode can be helpful, too!).

Your camera settings are also crucial here. If your subject is moving fast, you’ll need a quicker shutter speed (1/500s is a good starting point, though you can go slower or faster depending on the speed of your subject).

You don’t always have to plan these action shots, either. Sometimes, the best moments are spontaneous. Keep your camera ready, and keep an eye out. You never know when a cyclist will zoom by, perfectly framed against the setting sun.

12. Be aware of your surroundings

Now that you’re in your spot and set up, it’s easy to become fixated on the spot where the sun is rising or setting. But don’t let that narrow focus limit your creative vision. The sky is a vast canvas, and sometimes the most extraordinary colors appear where you least expect them.

Take a look around. Not just left and right, but also behind you. Sometimes, the sky opposite the rising or setting sun takes on hues just as dramatic, or even more so. These moments can be fleeting, and you have to be prepared to capture them.

If you’re working with a tripod, it should be easy to move. In the rush of capturing a great shot, you might need to pivot quickly to face a different part of the sky. Make sure your tripod and camera setup allow for this.

Bottom line: Keep your eyes peeled and your camera ready. The sun has a way of illuminating clouds and creating color spectacles in unexpected places. So be aware of your surroundings, and be ready to capture the magic wherever it happens.

13. Incorporate reflections into your shots

One trick that can apply that extra touch of magic to your shots? Adding reflections. Not only do reflections add pizzazz to your images, but they also break up the monotony of an all-black foreground.

Once you’ve found the perfect location for your silhouette shoot, keep your eyes peeled for a reflective surface in the foreground. Look out for small pools of water or wet areas, especially if you’re shooting by the beach.

Once you’ve found a nice surface, don’t just shoot without thinking. Instead, you’ll need to adjust your angle to ensure that your entire subject is reflected. For example, if you’re photographing a graceful jogger against the vibrant sunset, you wouldn’t want the reflection to accidentally cut off their head! Try shooting from higher or lower vantage points until you achieve the best composition.

Keep in mind that incorporating reflections into your silhouette photography can require some patience. It’s not always easy to stumble upon the perfect combination of a reflective foreground, a compelling subject, and a captivating background. But the reward is well worth the effort. Don’t give up! Keep exploring, keep searching for those hidden gems, and you’ll be amazed at the incredible opportunities that you uncover.

14. Try partial silhouette photography

While a total silhouette with a crisp, dark subject can be powerful, also consider capturing some partial silhouettes. I’m talking about photos that include some detail on the subject, like this:

As you can see, the subjects are dark, but they’re not completely dark, and you can still see a bit of detail in the sand and the subjects’ clothes.

Sometimes, a touch of light makes the subject slightly more three-dimensional and real, which – depending on your goals – can work well. Plus, a bit of extra detail can add to the mysterious feel of the image.

And if you’re not sure whether to create a full silhouette or a partial silhouette, that’s okay; just bracket your shots! That’s the beauty of bracketing: it will leave you with both total and partial silhouettes to choose from.

15. Create a halo effect

Ever seen those breathtaking silhouettes framed by a heavenly glow? That’s the halo effect, and it’s not as hard to achieve as you might think. This effect adds a radiant outline around your subject.

Now, to get that glow, you’ll need to position your subject directly in front of a light source. The setting sun is ideal for this, of course – so work hard to get the right angle as the sun lowers in the sky. If you can ensure that your subject is the right size in relation to the sun, and you can position your subject so the sun is almost entirely blocked, you can get a beautiful halo around the subject’s edges.

Your camera’s exposure settings come into play here. Experiment with different settings. You’ll find that slight adjustments can make your halo more or less pronounced.

Composition matters, too. Make sure there’s nothing intersecting with your subject’s outline. Random objects or clutter can disrupt the halo. So aim for a clear and unobstructed view.

If you’re struggling, don’t get discouraged. This technique takes practice. Start with simple subjects and work your way up!

16. Include props for unique results

Most photographers create candid silhouettes of distant strangers, but if you’re up for a bit of creative experimentation, why not try some posed shots? While I generally wouldn’t recommend capturing only silhouette shots during a portrait photoshoot, incorporating a few well-placed silhouettes can provide your subject with some cool and artistic photos that stand out from the crowd.

And if you’re really looking to elevate those images, try adding a prop or two. Whether it’s umbrellas, hats, musical instruments, or any other object that catches your fancy, props can inject personality and storytelling into your silhouette images. Just imagine a silhouette of a musician with a guitar, or a dancer with a flowing scarf.

When adding props to your compositions, keep in mind that they should be highly visible and not overshadow your subject. Also, ensure that the prop doesn’t intersect with your subject in a way that detracts from the clear outline you’re trying to create.

Remember, incorporating props is all about adding that extra touch of creativity and fun to your silhouette photography. So don’t be afraid to experiment and think outside the box. Let your imagination run wild!

17. Take a storytelling silhouette

Silhouettes hold the power to tell a story in the simplest sense. Strip away the clutter, the colors, and the chaos, and what you’re left with are raw emotions and actions that speak volumes. Picture a parent stooping to tie their child’s shoelaces, or an elderly couple holding hands while watching the sunset. These moments tell stories that resonate with us all.

Adding more elements to your scene can make it even more dynamic. Think of a busy marketplace with various vendors and shoppers, all silhouetted against the evening sky. Props can also play a role. Imagine a fisherman with his net, or a musician playing a saxophone. Their outlines not only identify them but also say something profound about their life or passion.

As I’ve emphasized throughout this article, it’s crucial to keep your subjects’ outlines clean. Intersections are the enemy of good silhouette stories! So do your best to avoid these overlaps as much as possible.

One final tip: the environment can be a supporting actor in your storytelling. A silhouette framed against a stormy sky can add drama, while a peaceful sunrise can impart a sense of hope or a new beginning.

18. Don’t just photograph people

Most silhouette photographers focus on people, and people do make great silhouette subjects. But you can also capture beautiful – and original – shots by focusing on other interesting objects.

For instance, you can create silhouettes of staircases (by getting down low and shooting upward), buildings, pets, planes, cars, and so much more.

Really, whenever you see a subject with a compelling shape, see if you can position yourself so that you have a nice backlighting effect, then try to shoot a clear silhouette. You’ll often fail to get the result you’re after, but occasionally the photos will look amazing.

19. Try photographing at sunrise

There’s no denying the challenge wind can pose in silhouette photography, especially with plant subjects. A slight breeze can introduce unwanted motion, turning what could have been a crisp silhouette into a blurry mess, especially when the light is very low. One way to circumvent this issue is to schedule your shoot for the early morning hours.

Generally, the wind is much calmer during the sunrise than at sunset. This tranquility allows for steadier shots, particularly if you’re trying to capture delicate subjects like leaves or flowers. The early morning atmosphere tends to be more stable, making it easier to get that perfect shot without any motion blur.

Now, if you’re not a morning person, don’t fret. There are alternatives. For those instances when you have to shoot later in the day, consider increasing your shutter speed. This will help to freeze any motion, reducing the chance of blur. Of course, this might require adjustments to aperture and ISO settings to maintain proper exposure, so be sure to make any necessary tweaks!

20. Use a flash as your main light source

Throughout this article, I’ve talked about photographing silhouettes using natural light. But did you know that you can capture gorgeous shots using flash, too? One benefit of flash silhouette photography is that you can completely control the light direction and strength, which allows you to achieve all sorts of cool effects.

Working with flash can be a bit intimidating, but the goal is simply to make the background brighter than the subject. Position your subject in front of a light-colored backdrop (such as a white wall), point the flash at the wall, then take some shots, with the goal of overexposing the background while underexposing the subject.

You might also try positioning the flash behind your subject so that it’s pointed directly at their back; this will create a rim-lit effect, which can look wonderfully artistic.

21. Spend some time processing your silhouette photos

Even if you nail the silhouette exposure in-camera, I’d recommend making a few minor tweaks using an editing program like Lightroom.

First, adjust the white balance until you get the results you want, then raise or lower the exposure to add or remove detail on the subject. You can also adjust specific tonal sliders for a more refined effect.

If you’re after a punchy silhouette shot, try adding some contrast – and if the image features a beautiful sunrise or sunset in the background, consider boosting the vibrance or the saturation.

Finally, experiment by adding a vignette, creating an eye-catching color grade, or selectively dodging and burning different parts of the image.

22. Try a black-and-white conversion

While the vibrant colors that often accompany silhouettes can be breathtaking, there are times when the color can be a bit too distracting or overwhelming. That’s when a black-and-white conversion comes to the rescue, allowing you to emphasize your subject’s form over the background colors.

Applying a black-and-white conversion can help strip away the distractions and accentuate the interesting outline you’ve captured. Plus, by converting your silhouette photograph to black and white, you’ll give the shot a timeless and artistic quality.

But here’s the best part: If you try a B&W conversion and aren’t entirely convinced by the black-and-white look, don’t fret! If you use a non-destructive editor like Lightroom, you can easily revert back to the original color version without losing any precious details. This gives you the freedom to experiment and determine whether your shot looks best in color and monochrome.

So the next time you’re editing your silhouette photos, consider giving the black-and-white conversion a try. It’s a simple yet powerful technique that can bring out the subject while de-emphasizing the background, and it can add an extra layer of depth and artistry to an already captivating image!

Silhouette portrait photography tips

In the previous section, I offered tips and tricks for silhouette photos more generally – but in this section, I want to focus specifically on how to capture portrait silhouettes.

1. Shoot low and head to toe

Powerful silhouette portraits start with clear, minimalistic compositions. Here’s what I recommend:

Place the subject’s entire body, from head to toe, against the sky. To pull this off, you’ll need to be lower than the subject, so try lying on your back or stomach.

If you are unable to get low enough, you may need to have your subject get higher; ask them to stand on a rock, small hill, or sand dune. In most circumstances, this will allow you to get an angle that places the subject’s entire outline against the sky. (You can see a variety of examples throughout this article.)

Why is this so important?

If you can’t place your subject’s body against the sky, they will merge with the background, and the recognizable silhouette will be lost. You’ll end up with a lot of confusing darkness, and your viewer won’t be able to immediately tell what’s going on.

Also, pro tip:

It’s so, so, so important that your subject’s feet are outlined against the sky! Legs in a silhouette portrait that are cut off above the feet look like weird, short stumps:

Even with all this composition advice in mind, there will be times when you just can’t find a suitable spot for a full-body-framed-against-the-sky type silhouette.

And when that happens, you don’t need to give up on silhouettes entirely. Just get closer to your subject and create tighter compositions, focusing on the areas of your subject that are framed by the sky.

2. Use perfect silhouette portrait posing

Silhouettes are very forgiving of poor facial expressions (because you cannot see them!). But silhouettes are very harsh when it comes to posing.

Here are a few things to keep in mind when posing subjects for a silhouette:

1. Hugging poses do not work. A hug silhouette looks like a great big blob monster. Instead, all subjects need to be clearly defined, which means they need to be at least a couple of inches apart from each other. It’s nice for subjects to still be connected – but by holding hands or kissing, not by hugging.
2. Have your clients look away from the camera. Face profiles look beautiful and natural.
3. Watch the clothing. Very baggy clothing won’t work well for silhouettes; the shape can become unflattering. It is best to wear form-fitting clothes, as this helps clearly define your subject against the sky.

3. Take portrait silhouettes whenever you can (because they sell!)

Try to capture at least one silhouette at every photo shoot, whether it is a family portrait, maternity, engagement, or wedding.

Why? Because silhouettes sell!

Here are some reasons why silhouettes are great for client shoots:

• Silhouettes add variety to the series. Silhouettes are so different in their colors and style – and the variety they give instantly makes any shoot more interesting. Plus, because silhouettes are unique compared to standard portraits, they’re easy to sell individually as a piece of artwork.
• Silhouettes are perfect for shy clients. Some clients hate the idea of their faces hanging up on the wall. This makes silhouettes the perfect compromise! A silhouette can be marketed to a client as the perfect piece of personalized artwork – without making them feel uncomfortable or self-conscious.
• Silhouettes look better when printed big! Wide-angle silhouettes and scenic, environmental compositions look great, especially when printed large. So if you do capture wider silhouettes, you can sell them as a large piece of artwork. The client will love it, and it’ll be a more profitable sale for you.

Street photography silhouette tips

Street photography silhouettes are eye-catching, not to mention beautiful. But beginners often struggle to achieve great results – the kinds of compositions that feature clear main subjects, complementary backgrounds, and gorgeous light.

Here’s the good news: Creating silhouettes on the street is a lot easier than you think. I’ve been doing it for years, and below, I share everything you need to know for amazing results!

1. Shoot in the right light

For the best street silhouettes, you must shoot a dark subject against a well-lit background – which means that the more contrasty the lighting, the better.

You may have heard that great photographers only ever shoot in the morning and the evening (during the golden hours). But when it comes to street photography, nothing could be further from the truth.

Instead, many street photographers love to shoot in the middle of the day, when the sun is high overhead and produces harsh light. The harsh light ensures that certain subjects are powerfully lit, while the high lighting angle creates plenty of interesting shadows (especially in cities with tall buildings).

And shadows are the best friend of the silhouette street photographer.

Why? Because if you can find a bright background, and then – just in front of the background – is a shadow, subjects who walk by will be darkened by the shadow and silhouetted against the bright background.

Of course, you can capture great results when the sun is lower in the sky. An evening sun can produce long shadows (so you can create the same effect discussed above). Plus, if you shoot during the golden hours, you can angle your camera so that your subject is silhouetted against a breathtaking sunset.

If you’re after silhouettes, I’d encourage you to avoid photographing on cloudy days, though. Clouds soften the light and limit contrast. (If you’re dead set on capturing silhouettes, try shooting indoors, where you can use the contrast between your subject and a window to get a beautiful result!)

2. Choose the perfect camera settings for street silhouettes

To shoot a street photography silhouette, you must take control of your camera. Silhouettes require radical underexposure, so work in Manual mode (so you can choose your settings independently) or Aperture Priority (so you can underexpose via exposure compensation).

Make sure your flash is turned off, then – if you have the time – take some test shots of your scene. You’ll want to keep adjusting the exposure until your foreground subjects are completely black; add negative exposure compensation or boost the shutter speed.

A timesaving trick here is to point your camera at the bright area behind the subject, lock the exposure settings, recompose, and capture your shot. That way, your camera will expose for the background and render the foreground black. Make sense?

Another option is to set your camera to its spot metering mode, then meter off the brightest area behind the subject.

(If you leave your camera to its own devices, it’ll often try to expose for your subject. The result will include far too much detail in the subject and blow out the highlights in the background.)

Make sure you carefully focus on your silhouetted subject. If you’re struggling to lock onto your subject, you can try switching over to manual focus. To give yourself room for error, narrow the aperture to f/8 or so for a deeper depth of field.

3. Don’t be afraid to blow out the highlights

Some street photography silhouettes rely on highlight detail. Subjects captured against a rising or setting sun, for instance, can feature beautiful background clouds that add plenty of color and atmosphere.

That said…

Sometimes you can let the highlights blow out for a more dramatic effect.

In other words, you can subtly adjust your exposure to create a bright-white background, like this:

To get this effect, you’ll need to make sure your subject is sufficiently shaded and your background is sufficiently bright. You need real contrast. If you’re outdoors, try to find a bright white background and wait for a subject to walk by; if you’re inside, look for larger windows that’ll offer plenty of brightness.

And aim to set your exposure somewhere between the shaded subject and well-lit background. You can expose for the subject but drop the exposure a few stops, or you can expose for the background but raise the exposure a few stops. (If you’re not sure which method you prefer, try both!)

4. Capture the right outline

Great street photos don’t include just any silhouette. Instead, they feature silhouettes that:

• Are well-defined
• Have a recognizable shape
• Do not have any additional items (such as signs) protruding from the main outline

What’s important here is that the viewer can clearly tell the silhouette is created by a person. Therefore, it’s best to shoot subjects that are facing sideways (so that their nose and chin are visible) or forward (so that you can see their arms, legs, and head), and it’s important to avoid letting the silhouette overlap with other silhouetted objects, such as street scenes or even other people.

For an even more dynamic image, capture subjects in mid-stride or mid-gesture:

To get the best results with moving subjects, you’ll need to be fast. Raise your camera to your eye a few seconds before the subject walks by, then hit the shutter button just as they take a step!

5. Avoid obstructions

The best silhouette street photos contain an unobstructed view of the subject. In other words, the image should have no foreground or background elements that cross the subject, such as posts, signs, other people, or cars.

Why is this important?

Good silhouettes feature clear outlines. But if elements cross your subject, the outline will become confusing, and the viewer will struggle to interpret the shot.

So before you take an image, glance across the entire composition. Ask yourself: Do I see any problematic elements that could muddy up the silhouette? If so, see if you can fix the problem by moving a few feet to the left or the right. You can also try dropping down low – or, if you’re shooting a moving element, you could simply wait until it changes position.

When capturing the image below, I waited until the woman with the suitcase walked between the posts. Then I fired the shutter!

6. Add in a creative effect or two

If you want to take your street photos to the next level, don’t just achieve a solid silhouette outline and call it a day. Instead, strive to incorporate creative effects into your shots!

For instance, by stopping down your lens aperture and positioning the sun along the edge of an object, you can create a beautiful sunburst:

Another option is to shoot with flowers or leaves close to your camera, then use a wide aperture to create a pleasing blur.

I’d also encourage you to change up your angle. By getting down low, you can make your silhouetted subject loom over the viewer – and by getting up high, you can capture wider street scenes that feature all sorts of action.

7. Try a minimalist approach

Minimalism refers to a compositional approach that includes plenty of negative space. The subject is often small in the frame, like this:

And because silhouette scenes tend to lack lots of detail and because the main subject is generally so eye-catching, they lend themselves well to a minimalist approach.

The key here is to find a scene that offers plenty of negative space. Look for buildings with bright windows, stretches of ocean with silhouetted passersby, and bridges that you can photograph from below.

Get into position. Make sure to compose so that you include lots of empty space around the subject. Test out a few compositions if you have the time, just so you can get a sense of what works and what doesn’t.

Then, when the right subject walks through the area, take a shot! The small silhouetted person will anchor the composition, and you’ll end up with a beautifully minimalistic street photo.

8. Enhance your street silhouette in post-processing

Great street photos start in the field. If you don’t get the camera settings right, the composition right, and the lighting right, then your shots just won’t look good no matter how much time you spend on editing.

However, once you’ve captured a good silhouette in the field, you can certainly enhance it with a bit of post-processing. (And if you work in RAW – which I highly recommend! – then processing is a necessary part of your photography workflow anyway.)

Start by tweaking the exposure and the white balance. Make sure you have the overall look that you’re after, then dive into your heavier editing options. Boosting the contrast is generally a good move. If you find that your subject includes too much detail but you don’t want to tweak the highlights, try dropping the blacks or the shadows; conversely, if you like the look of your subject but you want to brighten the background, try boosting the whites or the highlights.

You might also play with different saturation values. And if you want to create a very unique effect, consider adding some sort of color grade. At the end of the day, this is about personal preference – so you won’t know what works until you try it!

Silhouette photography ideas to get you started

So you’re ready to dip your toes into the captivating world of silhouette photography but you’re not sure where to start? Don’t worry – ideas are your starting points, and I’ve got a bundle to fuel your creativity.

Landscape lovers, consider framing a silhouette with a waterfall in the background. Or how about capturing the outline of a lone tree against a fiery sunset? Don’t shy away from using natural elements like mountains or oceans as a backdrop. They can add a powerful touch to your silhouettes. Here are a few additional landscape photography silhouette ideas to consider:

• Mountain peaks outlined by twilight
• A cactus in a desert landscape with a colorful sky
• A waterfall with rocks or foliage in the foreground
• Cloud formations with a cliff edge
• A pier stretching into a sunset-lit ocean
• Silhouettes of boats on a calm lake
• A windmill against a dramatic sky
• An island surrounded by a glowing horizon
• A snowy field with barren trees

Now, if you’re more into people and portraits, think about expressive poses. A simple yet impactful idea is having someone leap into the air with their arms stretched out. Capturing a couple’s embrace during a setting sun can evoke intense emotion. Need more portrait photography silhouette ideas? Check these out:

• A musician playing an instrument
• Someone meditating in a peaceful setting
• A dancer frozen mid-leap
• A fisherman casting a line
• Kids playing catch in a field
• A jogger in motion
• Someone reading a book under a tree
• A person holding an umbrella in the rain

For those of you who love the urban buzz, street photography has its own charm in silhouette form. Imagine a cyclist riding past a lit-up billboard at night. Or a crowded bus stop with people absorbed in their own worlds. You could also look for architectural elements, like archways or staircases, to frame your silhouette subjects.

For more street silhouette ideas, why not photograph:

• Street performers in action
• A taxi against neon signs
• Pedestrians crossing a busy intersection
• A vendor selling street food
• An old man sitting on a park bench
• Kids skateboarding on a ramp
• Silhouettes inside a subway car
• A joyous parade

Feel free to mix, match, and tweak these ideas. The goal is to get your creative juices flowing. And once they are, there’s no stopping you.

How to photograph silhouettes: final words

Now that we’ve reached the end of our journey into the captivating world of silhouette photography, I hope you’re as excited as I am about all the incredible possibilities this technique offers.

Remember, there are no rules when it comes to silhouettes. You can stick with vibrant colors that sing harmoniously or go for the drama of black and white. And don’t be afraid to incorporate props for that extra touch of uniqueness – imagine a dancer twirling with an umbrella under a fiery sky!

Now, armed with the knowledge we’ve shared, it’s time for you to unleash your creativity. Grab your camera, and embrace the simplicity, the elegance, and the pure artistry of silhouettes!

Now over to you:

Have any silhouette tips or photos you’d like to share? Share them in the comments below!

The post Silhouette Photography: The Ultimate Guide (+ 33 Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

What is shutter speed in photography, and how can you use it to create stunning photos?

Shutter speed is a foundational photographic concept – one that every beginner photographer must master. Once you know how to use shutter speed, you’ll be able to capture sharp photos at will. You’ll also be prepared to capture interesting artistic effects (such as slow shutter speed blur).

In this article, I’m going to take you through all the shutter speed basics, including:

• A simple definition of shutter speed
• The effects that shutter speed has on your images
• The difference (and importance) of slow versus fast shutter speeds
• How to use different shutter speeds for outstanding results
• How to have fun with creative shutter speed techniques

So if you’re ready to become a shutter speed photography expert, then let’s dive right in!

What is shutter speed?

Shutter speed is the length of time the camera shutter is open while the camera takes a photo.

You press the shutter button, the shutter opens for a predetermined time period (i.e., the shutter speed), then the shutter closes and the image is complete.

When the shutter is open, light hits the camera sensor; therefore, the longer the shutter speed, the more light the sensor receives. This has various effects, as discussed in the next section.

Note that shutter speed is measured in seconds (or fractions of a second). Here are a few common shutter speeds:

• 10s
• 1s
• 1/10s
• 1/30s
• 1/60s
• 1/125s
• 1/250s
• 1/500s
• 1/1000s
• 1/1600s
• 1/2000s

The list begins with a long, 10-second shutter speed, but the shutter speeds get shorter and shorter, ending with a lightning-fast 1/2000s shutter speed.

Note that the shutter speed measurements listed above certainly aren’t comprehensive. Most DSLRs and mirrorless cameras let you select from 30-second shutter speeds all the way down to 1/4000s or 1/8000s, though you may also have access to a special mode – called Bulb mode – that lets you keep the shutter button open for your desired length of time.

Therefore, while most cameras offer several dozen basic shutter speed options (shutter speed presets, if you will), there are literally thousands of possible shutter speeds you can use, all of which expose the camera sensor to slightly different quantities of light. Make sense?

How shutter speed affects your photos

Shutter speed impacts your images in two key ways:

1. It increases and decreases exposure (i.e., image brightness)
2. It increases and decreases sharpness (i.e., image detail)

Let’s take a look at each item in turn.

Shutter speed increases and decreases exposure

The longer the shutter speed, the more light that hits your camera sensor – and the brighter the image becomes.

So if you photograph a tree at 1/1000s, then you lower the shutter speed to 1s, your second image – with its slower shutter speed – will be noticeably brighter.

This has major consequences. Much of photography is about achieving the proper brightness, or exposure, for a scene, and by adjusting the shutter speed, you can get different results. For this reason, shutter speed is one of the three camera exposure variables (along with aperture and ISO).

So when you’re out with your camera, you’ll need to adjust the shutter speed to achieve a nice, balanced exposure. The specifics will depend on the scene, but watch for blown-out highlights and clipped shadows. In other words, make sure you don’t over or underexpose so heavily that you lose information in the lightest or darkest parts of the photo.

Shutter speed increases and decreases sharpness

Faster shutter speeds freeze motion. Slower shutter speeds blur motion.

So if you’re photographing a bird in flight at 1/4000s, every feather will be crisp, even the flapping wings. But if you photograph that same bird at 1/15s, it will be an indecipherable blur.

Now, the shutter speed needed to freeze motion will change depending on the speed of the moving object. A feather drifting through the air may require a 1/200s shutter speed for maximum sharpness, while a fast-moving car may require 1/2000s or more.

A too-slow shutter speed is one of the main reasons why pictures come out blurry – so you should pay very close attention to your shutter speed value. Always make sure it’s fast enough to get the results you’re after.

How to set the shutter speed on your camera

The precise shutter speed mechanisms vary from camera to camera – but changing the shutter speed is usually as simple as rotating a dial (to learn all the specifics, I recommend you check your camera manual).

Note that your ability to adjust the shutter speed will change depending on your camera mode.

If you use Auto mode, your camera will select the shutter speed for you, and you will have zero ability to make changes.

If you use Manual mode, you can dial in the shutter speed at will (and you can also independently select your aperture and ISO).

If you use Shutter Priority mode, you can select the shutter speed and the ISO, while your camera will select the aperture for the optimal exposure (based on its evaluation of the scene).

If you use Aperture Priority mode, you can select the aperture and ISO, while your camera will select the shutter speed for an optimal exposure (again, based on its evaluation of the scene).

Different camera modes are good for different situations, so don’t just pick a mode and stick to it; instead, learn to adjust your mode dial depending on your photographic needs.

How does shutter speed relate to ISO and aperture?

In a previous section, I mentioned ISO and aperture, and how they – along with shutter speed – affect image exposure. But how exactly does this work?

First of all, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are all part of the exposure triangle because they together determine the amount of light that enters your camera. Each of these factors complements each other in that you can achieve similar exposure outcomes by adjusting the variables in relation to one another.

You may be familiar with the term “stops,” which refers to a halving (or a doubling) of the amount of light hitting the camera sensor. Therefore, with every full stop of adjustment in shutter speed, you are either doubling or halving the amount of light that enters your camera.

This means a shutter speed of 1/250s is twice as fast and lets in half the amount of light as a 1/125s shutter speed. And a shutter speed of 1/60s is approximately twice as slow as 1/125s and therefore lets in double the amount of light. So, 1/250s is one stop faster than 1/125s and two stops faster than 1/60s.

What does that have to do with aperture and ISO? The connection comes into play when you realize that ISO and aperture are also measured in stops, albeit in slightly different ways. This means that we can directly relate shutter speed to our ISO and aperture.

Let’s say we are shooting a moving subject at 1/60s at f/5.6 and ISO 100. The image is exposed correctly, but the subject is blurred. We find that a shutter speed of 1/250s (two stops faster) will freeze the motion, but it also leaves our scene underexposed by two stops since we have effectively decreased the amount of light by a factor of four.

To maintain our exposure, we must somehow compensate for the reduced amount of light from the faster shutter speed. We have two options: we can either increase the ISO by two stops or shoot with an aperture that is two stops wider than f/5.6.

So our new exposure settings would be either 1/250s at f/2.8 and ISO 100, or 1/250s at f/5.6 and ISO 400. Make sense?

How to choose the perfect shutter speed: step by step

Struggling to pick the perfect shutter speed? You’re not alone.

But while selecting the best shutter speed for your shooting situation might seem hard, it’s actually easy – once you get the hang of it. Here’s the two-step process I recommend:

Step 1: Determine the lowest-possible shutter speed that will get you a sharp shot

Look at your scene. Ask yourself: Are any subjects moving? And if so, what shutter speed do I need to freeze them?

You’ll get better at determining the lowest-possible shutter speed over time, but at first, it will take a lot of trial and error. Here’s a list of minimum sharp shutter speeds to get you started:

• Water flowing: 1/125s
• People walking: 1/250s
• People/animals running: 1/500s
• Cars driving: 1/1000s
• Birds flying: 1/2000s

Also note that, if your scene has zero movement, you cannot simply select whatever shutter speed you like. If you’re handholding your camera, then your hands will shake, and this will create blur – unless your shutter speed is fast enough.

The lowest-possible handheld shutter speed varies from person to person, plus it depends on your lens (longer lenses increase camera shake). And thanks to image stabilization technology, some cameras and lenses allow for slower handheld shooting. But I’d recommend keeping the shutter speed above 1/60s or so for short lenses, and 1/160s or so for long lenses, at least until you’ve done some tests.

Of course, if you’re shooting a scene with no movement, you do have another option: you can shoot with a tripod. Assuming your tripod is sturdy, it will let you drop your shutter speed as low as you like (which is how you can create beautiful moving water effects, as I discuss later in this article!).

Step 2: Boost your shutter speed (or adjust other variables) for the proper exposure

At this point, you should know your minimum shutter speed for a sharp shot. You shouldn’t drop below this speed – but you can always go above it, depending on your exposure needs.

If you’re in Manual mode, check your camera’s exposure bar (in the viewfinder). If the scene is overexposed, go ahead and boost the shutter speed.

If you’re in Shutter Priority mode, your camera will automatically select an aperture for a good exposure. But feel free to raise the shutter speed as long as your camera continues to choose an aperture you like.

On the other hand, if the scene is underexposed according to your camera’s exposure bar, you’ll need to change other camera settings to get the right exposure. Consider widening the aperture – but if this isn’t possible, you’ll need to raise the ISO.

Do not drop the shutter speed, however. Better to increase the ISO for a noisy image than to end up with unwanted blur.

And that’s it! To recap: Start by identifying your lowest-possible shutter speed for a sharp shot, then simply make tweaks for the optimal exposure.

That way, you get a crisp photo – with a balanced exposure, too.

Slow shutter speed photography

The advice I’ve given above is perfect for situations where you want to freeze a moving subject.

But what if a sharp shot isn’t your goal? What if, instead, you want to creatively blur your photo for a beautiful effect?

You see, blur isn’t always bad; it can communicate motion, plus it can look truly breathtaking, as in this waterfall shot:

In deliberate motion-blur situations, you should set your camera to Manual mode, then dial in the exact shutter speed you’re after.

At this point, you should check your camera’s exposure bar and adjust the aperture and/or ISO for a good exposure.

Note that you definitely need a tripod for this type of long-exposure photography. Otherwise, the entire shot will blur!

Pro tip: If you’re struggling to get a slow enough shutter speed without overexposing the image, consider using a neutral density filter, which blocks out light and is perfect for long exposure shooting. It’s commonly used to create long-exposure images in bright conditions.

Alternatively, you can shoot in near darkness (either indoors or at night). That’s how this subway image was captured:

What shutter speed is best? Basic recommendations

Now that you’re familiar with the ins and outs of selecting a shutter speed, I’d like to share a few basic recommendations for selecting the right shutter speed. These recommendations won’t always work, but they should certainly offer you a good starting point when adjusting your camera settings.

The best shutter speeds for landscape photography

Landscape photographers generally have two shutter-related goals:

1. Get the image sharp from foreground to background
2. Create artistic motion blur in moving water and clouds

Now, foreground-to-background sharpness refers to a deep depth of field. And while this isn’t directly related to shutter speed, the longer the shutter speed, the easier it becomes to achieve a deep depth of field.

(Why? The depth of field is controlled by the aperture – and lengthier shutter speeds allow you to adjust the aperture without underexposing the scene.)

Plus, as I explained in a previous section, if you want artistic motion blur, you need to lengthen the shutter speed.

Bottom line: Landscape photography thrives on long exposures. Most landscape photographers shoot at 1s to 1/200s in bright daylight, and as the light falls, the shutter speeds slow. Many landscape shooters work at 1/30s to 30s (or more) around sunrise, sunset, and at night.

Such lengthy shutter speeds are only possible with a tripod. If you don’t have a tripod, then it’s often best to drop your shutter speed as low as you can go without creating camera shake (often around 1/60s or so).

The best shutter speeds for portrait photography

Portrait photographers can be pretty flexible when choosing shutter speeds. The key goal is to keep your shots sharp – by avoiding camera shake as well as motion blur – but because you can generally instruct your subject and work from a stable position, this shouldn’t be too tough.

If you’re shooting a stationary subject, feel free to drop your shutter speed to around 1/80s or so (though 1/200s is safer).

And if you’re shooting a moving subject, such as a person dancing, I’d recommend working at 1/500s and beyond.

The best shutter speeds for wildlife and bird photography

Bird and wildlife photography generally involves capturing fast-moving subjects with long lenses.

Therefore, you should generally use the fastest shutter speed you can get away with. For slower-moving animals, 1/500s is a reasonable starting point (and you can go lower if the animal is completely stationary – just make sure you keep your lens on a tripod or handheld as stably as possible).

For fast-moving animals and birds, 1/1000s is the place to start. And when action is occurring, I’d really recommend pushing your shutter speed to 1/2000s and beyond.

The best shutter speeds for street photography

Street photographers tend to be less concerned with sharpness than other shooters, so your choice of shutter speed isn’t nearly as important.

That said, if you’re walking while shooting and/or photographing walking people, 1/250s is a safe starting point. If both you and your subject are stationary, then you can often shoot at 1/100s or slower (assuming you’re using good handholding techniques and relatively short lenses).

Tips and ideas for using your shutter speed creatively

The reason I’m a big fan of experimenting with different shutter speeds is that the opportunities seem endless. By only using a fast shutter speed you’ll limit your photography and miss out on so many great images. In my opinion, shutter speed is the setting that allows you to be the most creative and to capture unique and visually interesting images.

By changing the shutter speed only slightly (e.g., from 1/120s to 1/60s), the image can look completely different and tell a whole different story. Here are just a few ideas and techniques for using shutter speed creatively:

1. Use a fast shutter speed to freeze motion

In times of high action or drama, you can stop the motion by using a very fast shutter speed.

To do this, you will want your shutter speed to be at least 1/250s. As with the picture below of the water droplets being flipped through the air, you may want your shutter speed to be significantly faster. (The image displayed below was shot at 1/8000s!)

Working with shutter speeds this fast, even on bright sunny days, will require some adjustments. For example, you’ll need to open up the aperture to its widest setting. (This will result in a shallow depth of field, but such an effect generally looks good in action photos!) You will also probably need to increase the ISO (a little on bright days, a lot on cloudy days or indoors).

One more tip for this type of fast-shutter-speed photo: learn to anticipate the shot. With the continuous shooting speeds offered by most modern cameras, you may be tempted to just hold the shutter button down and blast away – but in my experience, this rarely works. The perfect moment is usually only captured by anticipating the action and triggering the shutter at precisely the right moment.

2. Pan for a cool slow-motion effect

Another way to use shutter speed creatively in times of action is to pan. Panning is where you move the camera during the exposure to follow the subject. Done properly, the subject will turn out relatively sharp, while the background will be blurred to convey a sense of motion.

Panning should generally done at slow shutter speeds (between 1/8s and 1/30s). Being able to slow down the shutter speed is typically welcome news, as it will mean you do not have to crank up your ISO or make other offsetting moves. But getting a good result when panning will frequently require at least a few attempts while you adjust the speed and other settings.

3. Slow the shutter speed way down

The next creative use of shutter speed I’d like to cover here is long exposure. This is where you hold the shutter open for a time and allow certain parts of your picture to move through the frame. You will always need a tripod for this technique.

Long exposure shutter speeds are basically between 10 and 30 seconds. Most cameras offer you the ability to go even longer by using Bulb mode, where the shutter stays open as long as you hold the shutter button down. A remote shutter release, which is always a good idea when you are shooting from a tripod, is almost a necessity for this type of shot.

Long exposure is a great technique whenever there is moving water involved, such as coastal scenes, rivers, and waterfalls. It is also great for light trail photography.

Most of the time, your challenge with shutter speed is to get enough light into the camera for a fast shutter speed, but when doing slow-shutter photography, you’re usually faced with the opposite problem. The challenge is to limit the amount of light entering the camera so that you can leave the shutter open for a long time without overexposing the image.

To do that, first close down the aperture to its smallest setting and use the lowest ISO setting on your camera. If those moves don’t restrict the light enough, you will need to use a neutral density filter. These are filters that restrict the amount of light coming into your camera.

They come in different strengths, though the typical values are between 2 and 10 stops of light. Get one of these ND filters (or a few different ND filters with different strengths) and keep it in your bag if you think you might like to try the slow-shutter-speed approach.

4. Create blur with deliberate movement

One of the main reasons for using a tripod when photographing with a slow shutter speed is to remove any vibration and movement from the camera, leading to crisp and sharp images. This shutter speed technique, however, goes against those guidelines; instead of leaving the camera on a steady tripod, you’re going to tilt or pan it while taking the image.

The use of a tripod is not necessary for this technique, and it’s easy to do without one. If you’re using a shutter speed slower than one second, a tripod can help you achieve a better result, though.

You’ll get the best results when your subject contains different colors and also has texture and patterns. When you’ve found the subject you wish to photograph – let’s say a treeline or a patch of grass – slow your shutter speed down to between 1/15s and 1/4s of a second. You can use an even slower shutter speed, but I’ve found that the best results are in this range, as you’ll still get some good texture and detail in the image.

Now, when you press the shutter button, quickly tilt or pan the camera in one direction – make sure that you’re quick enough! As you can see, the result is an abstract image with lots of lines. This technique doesn’t work for all scenes, and I recommend zooming in on your subject to avoid including the sky.

Continue repeating this technique and try moving the camera at various speeds; you can also make small changes to the shutter speed setting. You’ll soon see that even small adjustments will have a huge impact on the final image. It may take quite a few attempts before you get an image you’re truly satisfied with, so keep playing.

5. Try the zoom-blur technique

This is a technique you can experiment with heavily as the results will vary widely. Here’s how it works:

Set your shutter speed to five seconds and place the camera on a tripod. Press the shutter button, wait two seconds, then slowly start zooming your lens. Continue until the exposure is completed.

The resulting file will often appear as if two images are combined into one. The background will often be sharp, while ghost-like lines will create a sense of motion and can add a lot of extra depth.

Again, as with all of these creative exercises, trial and error is your friend. Don’t just do it once and move on. Try it multiple times with different settings, vary the exposure, try a different zoom speed (go fast, then slow), zoom in then out, zoom and stop at varying intervals, etc. After a while, you’ll hopefully capture something that has potential!

The shutter speed cheat sheet

To take your photography to the next level and achieve perfectly exposed photos, it’s important to understand and master shutter speed. Whether you’re looking to improve your understanding of shutter speed as part of the exposure triangle or you want to know how to use it artistically, the shutter speed ceat sheet makes things much easier!

Shutter speed in photography: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re well-equipped to create some gorgeous photos.

So head out with your camera and test out different shutter speeds. Get familiar with your options. And try the tips and techniques outlined above!

Now over to you:

How do you plan to select your shutter speed from now on? Do you have any shutter speed tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Shutter speed FAQ

This article was updated in December 2023 with contributions from over a dozen expert photographers: Darren Rowse, Adam Welch, Natalie Norton, Viktor Elizarov, Lyndzee Ellsworth, Vickie Lewis, Neil Creek, Barry J Brady, Christian Hoiberg, Kevin Landwer-Johan, Peter West Carey, Nisha Ramroop, Jim Hamel, Ana Mireles, and Ken Lyons.

The post Shutter Speed in Photography: The Essential Guide (+ Cheat Sheet) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in November 2023 with contributions from Darlene Hildebrandt, Darren Rowse, Tom Bricker, and Rick Ohnsman.

Fireworks, oh how they light up the night sky with their vibrant colors and explosive beauty! There’s something truly magical about witnessing a fireworks display, and as a photography enthusiast, you can’t help but feel the burning desire to capture those fleeting moments forever.

However, shooting fireworks can be incredibly challenging and require some real technical finesse. That’s where this article comes in handy; I explore a handful of effective approaches to help you master the art of fireworks photography and capture awe-inspiring shots.

Specifically, I share:

• The best settings for fireworks images
• Essential fireworks photo gear
• A simple way to prevent image blur
• Much more!

Just a quick note before we get started: Please remember that if you’ve never tried fireworks before, it does depend heavily on trial and error. I’ve made a lot of mistakes myself before I got any images that I was happy to show anyone.  Each time I photograph fireworks, there’s always an element of unpredictability, so you have to learn to adapt, learn from your own mistakes, and do it again.

Ready to learn how to photograph fireworks? Then let’s dive right in!

1. Bring the right equipment

What will you need to make good fireworks photos? Let’s break down the basic equipment needs:

Use a DSLR or mirrorless model for more flexibility

You can take fireworks photos with a smartphone camera if that’s all you have. However, the results won’t be quite as impressive, and I’d therefore recommend you invest in (at least) an entry-level DSLR or mirrorless camera.

Also, be sure to have a good-sized storage card, as well as a spare battery or two, as you’ll usually take lots of shots at a fireworks show.

Use a zoom lens for compositional variety

Lens choice largely depends on how close you will be to the fireworks launch location.  If you are close, you may need a wide-angle lens to keep the larger bursts in the frame. If, however, you are a long distance from the show or want to compress the apparent distance between your foreground object and the sky bursts, a telephoto lens might be in order.

My go-to lens for firework photography is a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS, which covers a good range. Note that you don’t need a particularly fast (i.e., wide-aperture) lens as you will be working with mid to small apertures and longer shutter speeds. Of course, it’s worth using a lens that offers consistently crisp results, so don’t skimp on this piece of equipment!

Use a tripod to keep your camera still

To capture sharp fireworks shots, it is crucial to keep your camera perfectly still, and this generally requires the use of a sturdy tripod.

Why is a tripod so important? Fireworks displays occur at night, when lighting conditions are challenging, and long shutter speeds are necessary (more on this later!). When you’re capturing a lengthy exposure, even the slightest camera shake can result in blurry images – unless your camera is set up on a rock-solid tripod, that is.

Ensure that you set up your tripod on a stable surface and shield it from any potential wind. If you don’t already own a tripod, there are affordable options available, including some portable travel tripods. If you don’t have the time or money to purchase a tripod, you can always improvise by placing your camera on the ground or a table.

Note that shooting with a tripod offers additional benefits: It enables you to try HDR bracketing, and it encourages you to compose more deliberately and thoughtfully by slowing down the process.

Use a remote release to further reduce camera shake

Even with your camera securely mounted on a sturdy tripod, there’s a risk of camera shake when you press the shutter button, resulting in blurry shots. This is why a remote release is an essential firework photography accessory.

A remote release is a wireless device that connects to your camera, allowing you to trigger the shutter from a distance. By using the remote, you eliminate the need to physically touch the camera, ensuring maximum stability and sharpness in your images.

Happily, investing in a remote release won’t break the bank (they’re quite affordable)! However, if you don’t have one or prefer not to purchase it, you can get a similar result by activating your camera’s two-second self-timer. While this method isn’t ideal – you’ll need to anticipate the firework bursts and fire the shutter two seconds in advance – it can still get the job done.

2. Scout the location in advance

When it comes to capturing stunning fireworks photographs, preparation is key. Firework displays take place after sunset, and if you’ve ever tried to compose in the dark, you’ll know that it is hard. To ensure you make the most of the limited time you have to photograph the spectacle, it is crucial to scout the location in advance.

Visiting the location earlier in the day allows you to familiarize yourself with the surroundings and identify potential vantage points that will offer breathtaking perspectives. Seek out locations that allow for expansive and sweeping shots, where you can capture the full grandeur of the display. Consider the angles, sightlines, and potential obstacles that may hinder your view or introduce unwanted distractions. By doing so, you can position yourself to capture the magic as it unfolds.

Note, however, that while scouting the location in advance provides you with valuable insights, it doesn’t mean you have to rigidly stick to predetermined compositions. Embrace the spontaneity of the moment and be open to improvisation. Fireworks are dynamic, and each explosion brings unique patterns and colors to the sky. Use your scouting knowledge as a foundation, but allow yourself to experiment and adapt on the spot!

3. Use a low ISO for the cleanest shots

High ISOs create brighter exposures, but they also create noise, which reduces image quality and looks plain bad.

So whenever possible, use your camera’s lowest native ISO setting. And only raise the ISO if your exposures are turning out too dark.

I recommend using ISO 100 or 200, and this is for a couple of reasons. First, the higher the ISO you use, the more noise you’ll introduce in your images. Noise also tends to live in blue areas of images, and nighttime has a lot of blue, so that compounds the issue. Plus, long exposures tend to increase noise.

Bottom line: You should work especially hard to minimize noise in your fireworks photos, and that involves using a low ISO. Fortunately, fireworks tend to be very bright, so as long as you use a tripod, you probably won’t need to raise your ISO. Therefore, I’d recommend setting it to ISO 100 and only raising it if you absolutely need a boost.

4. Shoot in RAW

For fireworks photographers, photographing in RAW is a game-changer. While beginners may opt for JPEG files due to their simplicity and immediate usability, you won’t be able to realize the true potential of your fireworks photographs without working in RAW.

JPEG files may seem appealing at first, with their smaller size and lack of post-processing requirements. However, they limit your creative freedom when it comes to refining your images. On the other hand, RAW files offer an abundance of possibilities during post-processing. These versatile files allow you to recover details hidden in shadows and highlights, ensuring that every element is faithfully preserved. With RAW, you also have the ability to fine-tune colors and tones, enhancing the overall impact of your firework photographs.

While it’s true that RAW files require post-processing before sharing them on websites or social media platforms, the editing process can be remarkably quick. Software programs like Adobe Lightroom offer intuitive interfaces that allow you to quickly convert RAW shots into shareable files.

So don’t let the additional workflow step deter you from shooting in RAW; it’s an investment that really pays off.

5. Switch off your flash

It’s simple, really:

An on-camera flash (or even an off-camera flash) can only illuminate the area a handful of meters in front of you. Therefore, a flash cannot affect a firework, and turning on your camera’s flash will only serve to waste battery.

Plus, if your camera uses a flash metering system, an active flash will cause the fireworks to come out dark. And constant flashing may even frustrate other folks trying to watch the fireworks.

So switch your flash off. And use the long-exposure technique I discuss below!

6. Turn off long exposure noise reduction

Many modern cameras have a noise reduction feature, which after the first exposure, takes a second “black frame” exposure, detecting the noise and then subtracting that from the initial exposure. It can work well in some situations, but here’s the thing:

The second exposure takes as long as the first, and if you’re making multi-second exposures, your camera will be busy working, and you’ll be missing subsequent firework bursts.

So turn it off. You’ll generally be using a low ISO with minimal noise anyway, and the delay in being able to make more shots isn’t worth the benefit.

7. Do not use Live View

Live View lets you preview your exposures on the camera LCD before you actually press the shutter button. It comes in handy in a lot of situations, but it’ll eat up your battery fast.

My recommendation: Save your battery for actually shooting and set up your shot using the eyecup viewfinder.

(That said, if you use a mirrorless camera, Live View is actually less energy-intensive than work via the electronic viewfinder. Therefore, if you shoot mirrorless, using Live View is a good idea!)

8. Use smaller apertures for the best fireworks photography

The lens aperture controls the image depth of field – that is, whether the scene features a small sliver of sharpness (shallow depth of field) or whether the scene is sharp throughout (deep depth of field). But what aperture is right for photographing fireworks?

If you’re capturing fireworks that are far off in the distance and you have no foreground subjects, then you can get away with pretty much any aperture, from wide options like f/2.8 to narrow options like f/16.

However, if your composition features foreground elements or the fireworks are relatively close to your position, then you’ll want to use a narrow aperture (anywhere between f/8 and f/16 is good).

Plus, those apertures are pretty optimal for fireworks as the light streaks are controlled by the size of the aperture.  Closing down more will make the light trails thinner, opening up more will make them wider and possible too over exposed.  Do some tests but all the times I’ve done fireworks I keep coming back to f8 as my preference.

The narrower aperture will widen the depth of field, ensuring that the fireworks and the rest of the scene turn out sharp.

9. Use a longer shutter speed (but don’t let it go too long!)

Fireworks are a moving subject, and shutter speed deals with subject motion. So if you want to get great fireworks shots, you must choose the perfect shutter speed.

Now, fireworks leave beautiful light trails, and you can capture this with a longer shutter speed. However, you don’t want to let the shutter go for too long. Fireworks are bright, and if you’re not careful, you’ll end up with lots of clipped highlights in your frames.

An easy method to handle this is by switching your camera over to Bulb mode. Once in Bulb mode, the shutter will remain open for as long as you hold down the shutter button (or the shutter release).

When a firework is about to explode, you can hit the shutter button. And you can hold down the button until the explosion is finished.

Do a test shot before the show starts and see if the sky is too dark or too bright and adjust the exposure time accordingly. As long as you’re under 30 seconds (the longest shutter speed on most cameras), you can let the camera time the shots for you. Or you can switch to Bulb and just open and close manually when you feel you’ve captured enough bursts in one image.

10. Use manual focusing for sharp shots

Mirrorless autofocus systems are better than ever before – yet focusing in low light still causes cameras to struggle. Plus, refocusing on each new burst of fireworks takes time, which may ultimately cause you to miss the shot.

Therefore, instead of trying to autofocus, switch your lens over to manual focus.

Then, when you see the first burst of fireworks, manually adjust the focus ring until the scene appears sharp. Take a test shot, and be sure to zoom in on your LCD screen to make sure it looks good.

Once you’ve acquired perfect focus, simply leave it alone for the rest of the fireworks show, and the results will turn out great (especially if you’re using a narrow aperture!).

One note: Changing focal lengths will change the plane of focus on most lenses, so if you zoom in or out, you should check your point of focus (and re-focus if necessary).

11. Anticipate the best compositions

Even if you’ve done plenty of scouting, one of the most difficult parts of photographing fireworks is working out where to aim your camera. The challenge is that you generally need to compose before the fireworks actually burst, so anticipation is key. Here are a few quick tips to help you select compositions in advance:

• Watch a few bursts before you shoot. In general, each new firework will come from (roughly) the same spot, so by observing the skies, you can get a sense of where to train your camera. You can also get a sense of how long you have between bursts; that way, you can be ready to fire the shutter before each new explosion.
• Decide whether to shoot vertically or horizontally. You can capture fireworks vertically (portrait orientation) or horizontally (landscape orientation). Both can work for fireworks photography, but I personally prefer a vertical perspective – after all, there’s a lot of vertical firework movement! Horizontal shots are nice if you’re after an expansive shot using a wide-angle lens, however.
• Refine your framing. Once you’ve found a nice composition, don’t take a single shot and then move on to the next frame. Instead, see if you can improve the result by moving to one side, getting down low, getting up high, etc. You might be surprised by what you can create when you really dedicate yourself to working the scene.

12. Enhance your firework compositions with foreground interest

Beginner firework photographers often just point their camera at the sky and shoot away – but while this can produce nice results, if your goal is to create captivating images that leave a lasting impact, incorporating an interesting foreground is a great idea.

You see, by seamlessly blending a magnificent sky explosion with a compelling foreground, you offer viewers a visual journey. They can start by appreciating the foreground’s charm before engaging with the mesmerizing backdrop.

Note that you can include all sorts of elements as your foreground interest: buildings, mountains, hills stretching into the distance, or even amusement park rides. The choice is yours, but I encourage you to think carefully about which foreground elements will complement the fireworks display.

By the way, if you can include foreground elements that offer leading lines, the results will be especially spectacular. These lines can create a visual pathway that not only connects the foreground and the fireworks but also enhances the overall composition!

13. Include reflections in your firework compositions

Looking to elevate your firework shots from ordinary to extraordinary? Incorporating reflections into your compositions can provide that extra touch of brilliance.

You’ll need to strategically position yourself to include a reflective surface with the frame, but finding a suitable reflective object is easier than you might think. While lakes and ponds can always work, you can also unleash your creativity by utilizing puddles, glossy car surfaces, or even sunglass lenses.

I’d also encourage you to experiment with different compositions. For instance, try placing the horizon line in different areas of the frame and see what you think of the results. A dead-center horizon will yield a symmetrical shot infused with tension, while a horizon positioned in the upper or lower third of the frame will infuse your image with a dynamic and captivating feel.

14. Include people in your images

While the magnificent bursts of fireworks alone can create awe-inspiring images, incorporating people into your compositions can elevate your fireworks photos to new heights.

For one, including human figures in your frames will introduce a sense of scale that emphasizes the grandeur of the dazzling light show unfolding in the night sky. Additionally, people can act as foreground interest, adding depth and narrative to your photographs.

Plus, you can use people to tell stories; a solitary figure gazing in awe at the fireworks can evoke a sense of wonder, while a group of friends or a couple holding hands can portray a shared moment of joy and celebration.

One fascinating element to explore when including people in firework photography is the interplay between focus points. Experiment with different approaches to create varied effects. You can choose to focus on the fireworks, allowing the people in the foreground to become slightly blurred – or you can focus on the people in the foreground, intentionally blurring the fireworks in the background, creating an ethereal and dreamlike atmosphere. Both techniques can yield compelling results, so don’t hesitate to try different focal points and see which resonates with your artistic vision!

15. Experiment with different focal lengths

Firework photography comes with a major dilemma:

On the one hand, you can use a telephoto lens (such as a 70-200mm), which will get you detailed shots of the fireworks but is difficult to use. With a long lens, you’ll need to keep your camera trained on the right part of the sky at the right time, and it can be easy to miss.

On the other hand, you can use a wide-angle lens (such as a 24-70mm), which will capture the entire skyline but won’t offer lots of detail. Wide-angle lenses feature great “safety” focal lengths because you can generally trust that they’ll include the fireworks in the scene, even if the results aren’t quite as impactful as you might like.

So which lens should you use? As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, I’d recommend working primarily with a wide-angle zoom. But once you’ve grabbed a few wide-angle shots that you like, feel free to switch over to your telephoto lens and see if you can nail some close-ups.

Of course, if your camera offers enough resolution, you do have the option to crop afterward – just bear that in mind!

16. Use a neutral density filter to get a longer exposure if need be.

If it’s not 100% dark out yet (i.e., the sky still has some light), an ND filter will allow you to get a longer exposure and make sure the fireworks bursts have a nice arch.  You see, if your exposure is too short, you’ll end up with short, stubby-looking bursts rather than nice umbrella-shaped ones.

Now, if your bursts are too short, you can start by simply extending the shutter speed. But if the files turn out overexposed, slap on that neutral density filter! Plus, using the ND filter if it is dark will also allow you to shoot lengthy exposures that capture more bursts per image. 

Experiment, have fun, and try shooting with and without the filter. (A polarizing filter will work, too, but to a lesser degree.)

As far as which filter to get, the ND 0.9 filter has become the filter of choice for fireworks photographers due to its price and because it typically achieves optimal exposure lengths. Another option to consider is the ND 1.8 filter. Far fewer brands make ND 1.8 filters, and the brands that do are usually more expensive, but the filter is very versatile and offers a couple of advantages over the ND 0.9 filter.

First, since it reduces the exposure by six stops of light as opposed to the three stops of light, you’ll be able to get decent shutter speeds even with a slightly wider aperture. And a wider aperture – in the f/5.6-f/8 range – minimizes diffraction and maximizes sharpness. Plus, an ND 1.8 filter can come in handy when shooting other subjects in the daytime or at twilight, whereas an ND 0.9 filter won’t have a huge effect.

17. Shoot most of your shots at the start of the show

This tip is quick but handy:

Whenever possible, capture your most interesting, surefire compositions at the beginning of the show, not the end.

This will avoid the smoke and haze that appears a bit later. Eventually, the sky will be filled with smoke, which doesn’t look as pretty. (Later on in the show is when I like to try some close-ups or abstracts.)

18. Make sure you leave enough room in your frame to anticipate the height of the opened bursts

If you fail on the first shot, simply make adjustments as needed. In my experience, it’s a lot of trial and error and correcting. It’s often hard to tell where the highest fireworks will end up in the sky, so you may want to try both horizontal and vertical compositions.

19. Practice timing your shots

Consider starting your exposures when you hear the fireworks being released; that way, you’re more likely to capture a few bursts. 

Also, do some testing to see how many bursts are just right for your taste. Try some shots with more and some with less. Having too many may overexpose the overall image, so keep that in mind, as well.

20. Shoot facing east

If you want a darker sky in your fireworks shots, you should definitely photograph eastward rather than westward.

I’ve found that when I shoot into the sunset, the sky gets too blown out and the lights of the fireworks don’t show up as well as they do against a darker sky. So try and find a vantage point that has you facing east when possible!

21. Try zooming during the exposure

You may have seen those photos where the bursting fireworks look more like a flower, fat blurry trails with sharp points.  How is that done?

Here’s the technique, which you can vary for different results.

Know this takes practice, and luck plays a big part. So decide if you have already got enough necessary shots before you try it and whether the show will last long enough for some experimentation.

If you’re game, here’s how you do it:

• You will need your hands free for this, and you’ll want to look through the viewfinder or perhaps use Live View, so using the remote release probably isn’t going to work. Instead, set your shutter speed for about 8-10 seconds, leaving all the other camera settings where they were.
• Set your lens to manual focus, then focus on the spot where the fireworks will burst. Turn the ring so things are out of focus.
• Just as a firework explodes, fire the shutter and smoothly turn the focus right back to the focus point. You must get the fireworks in focus before the exposure is complete, but if you finish early, that’s okay.

And try different things with subsequent shots. Go from focused to unfocused, zoom in or out during the exposure, or maybe take the camera off the tripod and move it during the exposure to make light trails. Play and see what you like.

Just remember that the duration of the show is limited, so try some experiments but also be sure you have some solid keepers.

22. Use the black hat trick

Here’s a handy trick that can produce very artistic results:

• Have a hat, preferably one that’s dark and opaque.
• Put the hat over the front of the lens.
• Have the camera in Bulb mode, and just before the firework launches, click open the shutter.
• Quickly but gently – so as not to bump the camera – remove the hat while the firework explodes.
• Leave the shutter open and carefully replace the hat. Repeat, removing and replacing the hat for multiple fireworks bursts. (You may need to have a smaller aperture or lower ISO to do this as you will be building up exposure brightness with each additional firework added).
• Unlock the remote and close the shutter when you’ve done all you want.

What you’re doing is making a multiple-exposure image in-camera. Of course, you can always capture several images and blend them during post-processing instead!

23. Experiment and evaluate your results

As you shoot, don’t be afraid to experiment with different compositions and ideas! For instance, you might zoom in for a tighter perspective, zoom out for a wider perspective, change your angle, include people or buildings in the frame, and much more.

Also, periodically check your results for perfect sharpness, composition, and exposure.

I recommend taking a few photos at the start of the photoshoot. Review them on your LCD. If they look good, then keep going (and if they look bad, make the necessary adjustments!). Be sure to view your shots throughout the shoot to make sure you haven’t messed up in some significant way.

How to photograph fireworks: final words

And there you have it! Armed with these tips and techniques, you’re ready to capture the dazzling magic of fireworks like a seasoned pro.

Remember, it’s not just about pointing your camera to the sky and hoping for the best. Incorporating a captivating foreground adds depth and engages your viewer from the get-go. You can also prepare yourself by exploring the location in advance, seeking out prime vantage points, and envisioning different compositions. Finally, remember that flexibility is key. Be ready to adapt on the spot and let your creativity soar.

So grab your camera, head to the next firework extravaganza, and have plenty of fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use first? What fireworks will you photograph? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 23 Powerful Tips for Successful Fireworks Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in November 2023 with contributions from Darren Rowse, Kevin Landwer-Johan, Kav Dadfar, Rick Berk, Post Production Pye, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Unlike standard portraits – which focus solely on the subject – environmental portraits show the individual with their surroundings. These images are often uniquely captivating in how they offer a window into the subject’s world, but let’s be clear: achieving a compelling environmental portrait is no walk in the park.

You’ll need to juggle various elements like setting, lighting, and composition. It’s an intricate balancing act that, when done right, results in powerful photographs that tell a story.

And that’s what this ultimate guide is all about. I’ll explain all of the basics of environmental portrait photography, then I’ll offer essential tips and techniques to help you start capturing meaningful environmental portraits.

Let’s dive right in.

What is an environmental portrait?

Simply put, an environmental portrait is a portrait that includes more than just the subject. The idea is to capture an individual within a broader context, offering a glimpse into their life, personality, or occupation.

Environmental portrait photography does not involve capturing your everyday headshot or head-and-shoulders image. Instead, the photographer generally uses a wider lens to show the subject as well as nearby elements.

Note that environmental portraiture isn’t always posed, but it always involves an awareness from your subject. In other words, your subject knows they’re being photographed. While unplanned candid photography has its own charm, environmental portraits usually involve a level of interaction between the photographer and the subject. If your subject isn’t aware they’re being photographed, you’re likely venturing into the realms of street photography.

The setting for your environmental portrait can be diverse – and your choice of background, whether a bustling marketplace or a tranquil beach, can significantly influence the image’s mood and meaning. Some photographers like to capture subjects in their natural habitat: a chef in a kitchen, a musician in a studio, or a hiker on a mountain trail. The key is that the setting should add to the story you’re trying to tell, not distract from it.

Why are environmental portraits so powerful?

Ever wonder why some portraits just speak to you? Many of the best portraits do more than showcase an individual – they tell a story or at least offer insight into who that subject is. And environmental portraits excel at storytelling. Because they include a subject’s surroundings, these portraits add extra layers of information about that subject. Instead of just a face, you have a person in a place, doing something or being part of a bigger scene.

This additional context helps the viewer to better understand the subject. A musician photographed in a rehearsal space, surrounded by instruments, can tell you more about their dedication and passion. Similarly, a teacher captured in a classroom, even without students, gives a sense of vocation.

The power of environmental portraits also lies in their authenticity. Because you’re incorporating real-world elements, the photos feel grounded. You’re not just capturing a face; you’re capturing a relationship between that face and its surroundings.

Tips for beautiful environmental portrait photography

Capturing gorgeous environmental portraits can seem tough, but there are actually a few simple ways to improve your results, starting with:

1. Spend time getting to know your subject

Before you select a location and start shooting, spend some time getting to know your subject.

Find out where they spend their time, what the rhythm of their life is like, and how they behave.

This will not only help you find appropriate locations but will also help you get a feel for the style of shots that might be appropriate for the session.

Plus, you’ll begin the process of helping your subject relax! If you can, you might even want to accompany your subject to some possible locations; that way, you can see both whether the location suits them, as well as how they behave and interact there.

2. Get your subject talking

Now that you know a little about your subject, what they like to do, and where they like to do it, it’s time to point a camera at them.

This can be the “make-or-break” point of the shoot. If your subject is uncomfortable in front of the camera, it’ll come across in the images – unless you find a way to get them to relax.

Fortunately, one of the easiest ways to get them to relax is to just start a conversation. Make them forget that you are taking their photo by asking them about themselves. Have them talk about the location, their hobbies, their families, their job – anything to get their mind off of the camera in front of them.

For the portrait below, my subject was a New Yorker and lived nearby. This was an impromptu session after a private tutoring session, and she was reluctant to let me point the camera at her. She wanted to learn photography herself, so I wrapped a lesson into the banter and pretty soon she was just talking photography and forgetting I was snapping images!

3. Choose the right location

Sometimes a location chooses you – but on other occasions, you need to be quite deliberate and purposeful when making your choice. It can take a lot of searching.

You ideally want to find a location that:

• says something about your subject. After all, that’s what this style of photography is all about.
• adds interest to the shot. As I’ve written in previous tutorials, every element in an image can add or detract from the overall look. The environment in which you place your subject needs to provide context and interest without overwhelming the composition.
• doesn’t dominate the shot. Sometimes the location can dominate the image so much that it distracts your viewer from your main focal point (i.e., the subject). So try to avoid cluttered backgrounds (and foregrounds) and colors that are too bright, etc. Keep in mind that you might be able to remove the distractions with clever cropping, depth of field, and subject placement.

4. Try to tell your subject’s story

Once you’ve chatted for a while, or at least observed keenly, tell their story.

Concentrate on what will communicate most visually about the person, where they are and what they’re doing. This is the whole nature of environmental portraits.

Are they a quiet and reserved kind of person? Or are they a loud and boisterous character? Some people change when they get in front of a camera.

If they’ve been chatting away in an animated manner and freeze when you point your camera at them, it’s your job to help them relax. Frozen is not who they naturally are.

5. Use props, but keep them natural

The use of props in environmental portraits is a double-edged sword. While they can add value, they can also easily distract. The trick lies in selecting props that enhance rather than detract from the image. Imagine you’re photographing a writer; a pen and notebook on the table can add a layer of context and meaning.

Clothing, too, serves as a kind of prop. What your subject wears should be harmonious with the environment. If you’re shooting a fisherman, it makes sense for them to be in overalls and rubber boots. A business executive? A suit or formal attire fits the bill. The idea is to avoid anything that feels out of place or forced.

Props should be natural extensions of the environment or the subject’s personality. A chef photographed in a kitchen might have a wooden spoon in hand, but a medieval sword? Not so much. The same principle applies to less tangible props like lighting or even pets. If you’re capturing a family at home, a pet cat wandering into the frame can be a lovely addition.

Be discerning. Every element you introduce should serve the image’s overarching narrative. The rule of thumb is: if the prop doesn’t add to the subject’s story or seems incongruous in the setting, it’s probably best left out!

6. Watch for distractions

As you broaden your frame to include more of the environment, be cautious. Including too much can introduce distracting elements that steal attention away from your subject. The last thing you want is for a stray telephone pole, an oddly placed trash can, or a flashy billboard to become the unintended focal point of your image.

Being mindful of your surroundings is crucial. Scan the setting for anything that might clash with the overall mood or tone you’re aiming for. Sometimes, even a vibrant patch of color or a bright light source in the background can disrupt the composition.

A simple fix often involves minor adjustments. Asking your subject to move a couple of feet to the right or left can make a world of difference. Likewise, you can change your own position or angle to exclude distractions from your frame. These small tweaks can refocus the viewer’s attention where it belongs: on your subject.

7. Work with the light

Lighting can make or break any photograph, and environmental portraits are no exception. The source and quality of light can greatly influence the mood, texture, and overall impact of your image. Whether you’re dealing with the harsh midday sun or the soft, diffused light of a cloudy afternoon, the goal is to use it to your advantage.

Hard, contrasty light can create heavy shadows, adding a layer of drama to your subject and their environment. While this may work for some scenes, it’s not always a desirable effect. On the other hand, on cloudy days, the overcast sky acts like a natural softbox, providing flattering light that evenly illuminates your subject.

Golden hour, the period shortly after sunrise or before sunset, offers yet another lighting opportunity. The warm, directional light during these times can add a three-dimensional feel to your images. It brings out textures and casts long, soft shadows – so I highly recommend you use it whenever you get the opportunity.

8. Consider modifying the light

I try to go as minimal as possible with gear for environmental portraits and use natural light. However, there are always times when the light is less than optimal (for instance, extremely harsh) – in such cases, you need to modify it in some way.

This can be as simple as adding a reflector in a strategic location or setting up a flash with a softbox or umbrella. It will all depend on the available light and the look you are going for. One thing I always try to do is keep the light looking as natural as possible.

This next shot was a business portrait, but my client wanted more than a simple headshot. It was taken late in the day, meaning I had to create my own light. She wanted her team in the background working (because she wanted to show that, when you worked with her, she had a whole team backing her up). I used a speedlight to illuminate the background by bouncing it off a white wall and the ceiling. I then used a second speedlight modified by a 28-inch softbox to light my client. I adjusted the intensity of the lighting so that the background light was at a 2:1 ratio with my main light.

9. Think about posing your subject

Not every environmental portrait needs to be carefully posed. However, some polished poses can make a big difference to the final results.

So don’t be afraid to direct your subject to sit, stand, or act in a way that fits the environment. Some of the poses might seem slightly unnatural and dramatic, but it’s often these purposely posed shots that are more interesting and give a sense of style to your photography.

The expression on the face of your subject is also very important in environmental photography, and you should consider how it fits with the overall scene.

For example, if you’re shooting in a formal environment, it may not be appropriate to photograph your subject with a big, cheesy smile; you might prefer a more somber or serious look.

Ultimately, just mix it up to see what does and doesn’t work!

10. Consider capturing a series of images

If a single environmental portrait can tell a story, imagine what a series of them could do. This approach allows you to dig deeper into your subject’s life, painting a fuller picture of who they are and what matters to them. Capturing a series can ensure a nuanced representation of your subject that one photograph alone might not capture.

For example, you could follow your subject throughout the day. Document them at work, catch them during a quiet moment at home, or even capture them in the midst of a hobby or social event. This approach can produce a captivating series that speaks volumes about your subject’s life and passions.

Another idea is to photograph your subject in different settings over an extended period. This not only shows the subject in various contexts but also allows for the possibility of capturing change and growth. It can be a compelling way to explore themes like aging, career development, or even the impact of significant life events.

11. Deliberately choose your camera settings (especially your aperture!)

There is no right or wrong way to set up your camera for an environmental portrait. It will depend completely upon the effect you’re after and the shooting scenario.

You might find that shooting at a smaller aperture (i.e., a larger f-number) will be appropriate as it’ll help keep the foreground and background in focus.

I generally shoot environmental portraits with a wider focal length to give the environment prominence in the shot. (For more on choosing a lens for environmental photography, see below!)

Of course, that doesn’t mean you can’t shoot with a longer lens or with a large aperture and shallow depth of field. In the end, anything goes!

12. When photographing indoors, raise your ISO

As a rule, you should aim to keep your ISO as low as possible whenever you are photographing.

However, in low light conditions such as markets, and inside buildings, you might have to raise it to guarantee you can capture your photo at a fast enough shutter speed for sharp shots.

My advice: You should test your camera at different ISO settings to get an idea of the acceptable noise it will produce so that when you are on location you don’t go above that!

13. Know your camera

Your subject is likely to lose interest in what’s happening if all they see is the top of your head as you peer down at your camera.

Preset your camera so you know the settings will be right. Do this as soon as possible so you will have time to concentrate on communicating with your subject and other important things.

14. Use Live View

This plays right along with the item above.  Most people tense up when you raise the camera to your eye, waiting for the image to be taken. Some may even inadvertently shut their eyes, expecting a flash. If you can use Live View on your camera, you can get it away from your face. Your subject will be looking at you, and not at the camera, and will not necessarily anticipate you pressing the shutter button. This works especially well with cameras that feature articulating screens. It can be helpful to mount the camera on tripod as well, using a remote release to trigger the camera.

This is an image of my friend Chris (below), taken while he was supposed to be shooting me and my kids. We were discussing what shots we wanted next when I clicked this, using Live View to frame the shot and focus.

15. Choose your lens carefully

Showing the surroundings is important. So is communicating with your subject while you are working.

If you have a telephoto lens on your camera, you’ll have to position yourself a long way from your subject to include enough of their environment.

With a medium to wide lens on you can be close enough and also include more of the setting. I love using my 35 mm f/1.4 lens on a full-frame body for environmental portraits. It allows me to be close enough to converse comfortably and still show a decent amount of background.

Be careful if you are using a lens much wider than 35mm as you will be at risk of distorting your subject.

16. Time your shots

In environmental portraiture, timing is everything. You want to catch your subject in a state that’s true to them – and if they’re interacting with their surroundings, that’s even better. This harmony can convey a profound message about the person and the place they’re in.

Always be prepared. Keep your finger ready on the shutter button. And consider that a valuable image doesn’t just involve the subject’s facial expressions or body language. It could be a fleeting moment where they interact with their environment in a way that perfectly encapsulates their relationship with it. For example, a musician lost in the rhythm of a song, a cook immersed in the sensory delight of spices, or a child’s pure joy while playing in a park.

17. Capture multiple people interacting

Environmental portraits aren’t limited to solo subjects. Including multiple people can add another layer of depth and emotion to your photograph. But here’s the key: when more individuals are in the frame, it’s crucial to keep an eye on their interactions.

A well-timed shot of two or more people interacting can tell a compelling story. It could be a couple sharing a tender moment, coworkers immersed in a project, or even a family enjoying a simple meal. Try to capture genuine interactions that feel organic rather than staged.

With more subjects, you’ll also have to be extra cautious with composition. Their positioning should complement the shot as a whole, and if you can arrange them in a way that directs the viewer’s eye through the photo, it’ll enhance visual flow. Each person should ideally contribute to the overall narrative you’re trying to convey, ensuring a cohesive and impactful photo.

Bottom line: Including multiple people in a single portrait shot be challenging to pull off but incredibly rewarding when done right!

18. Write good captions

A good caption will provide added detail that you may not be able to clearly convey in your photo. Informative captions help hold people’s interest by further stimulating their imaginations.

Offer a little more information about the person. This is another good reason to engage with them while you’re photographing them.

If you’re not clear on what to write, search the internet.

Recently I watched this documentary about the photographer Dorothea Lange. She is most well known for her work in the midwest USA during the Great Depression. The documentary emphasizes the need for the well-written captions she provided with her photographs.

19. Don’t be afraid to shoot tight

While it’s true that an environmental portrait normally means showing some of the area around your subject – the environment – you can get close and still show your subject’s character.  Take an element of your subject’s hobby, and show them participating in the hobby. If they’re a model builder, you could do a tight shot of them applying glue or assembling the pieces.  This is your chance to be creative, trying different angles, focusing on different aspects of  their personality and character.  Emphasize features that stand out, in a flattering way, if that’s the goal. Find out what makes the person in front of your camera special, and capture it!

This is the same girl as the shot in front of the bridge. She’s a photographer as well now, but back then she was just a hobbyist who wanted to know more about her camera. I used the beautiful sunset light I was getting, and set up a reflector to camera right to bounce the light back into her face. I wanted her peeking out from behind her camera, illustrating that she’s into photography.

20. Remember to apply some editing!

If you shoot your environmental portraits in RAW – and I highly suggest you do! – then you’ll need to add some minor adjustments to ensure your photos closely match the scenes that you saw with your eyes.

Boosting the contrast, adding a touch of sharpening, recovering shadow and highlight detail, punching up the saturation slightly – these are all effective methods of creating a more natural result.

And once you’ve done that, you can always enjoy some creative editing to take your portrait to the next level. You can add a vignette to put focus on the subject’s face, you can reduce the exposure in the sky for some added drama, and you can even use dodging and burning to add some three-dimensionality to the scene!

Environmental portrait photography: additional resources

Interested in even more content on capturing outstanding environmental portraits? If so, do yourself a favor and watch this video of a training session by photographer David Handschuh and what he has learned about the topic from the last 20 years of his doing environmental portraits:

Thanks to the team at BHPhoto for putting this video out there.

How to photograph environmental portraits: final words

Environmental portrait photography opens up a realm of creative possibilities and allows you to delve deeper into your subject’s story. But remember: Crafting an impactful environmental portrait involves a fine balance. It’s an interplay of subject and setting, mood and moment, light and shadow. Each element contributes to the overall narrative, shaping how the viewer perceives and connects with the image.

By applying the techniques discussed in this guide, you’ll be well on your way to creating compelling, emotionally rich portraits. The journey might be challenging, but the rewards are incredibly fulfilling.

So the next time you’re doing portrait photography, try applying some of these tips, and see what you can create!

Now over to you:

Have you done any environmental portrait photography? What tips would you give other readers? Feel free to share your tips (and images!) in the comments below.

Note: This article was updated in October 2023 by dPS’s Managing Editor, Jaymes Dempsey.

The post How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in November 2023 with contributions by seven expert photographers: Andrew S Gibson, Mat Coker, Kevin Landwer-Johan, Bobby Roy, Peter West Carey, Trisha Bartle, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Candid photography is a great way to capture spontaneous, honest images, the type of shots that tell real stories about their subjects. But taking candid photos can be difficult – even stressful – especially if you’ve never done it before.

Fortunately, there are plenty of tips and techniques that pro-level candid photographers use to get consistently great results, and in this article, I aim to share them all, including:

• How to photograph without drawing attention to yourself
• A simple technique to keep your subjects acting natural (even once they’ve noticed you)
• The right candid photography settings and gear for sharp, well-exposed images
• Plenty of resources for amazing candid portraits and candid wedding shots

I also cover the basics, including what candid photography is and whether it’s legal. So if you’re ready to add that authentic feel to photos you take of loved ones, portrait subjects, street scenes, wedding shots, and more, let’s dive right in!

What is candid photography?

Candid photography is any photo that captures an authentic, unposed moment. It’s about preserving genuine expressions, emotions, and interactions without any forced poses or awareness of the camera. Instead of arranging the scene or instructing subjects to pose, candid photography aims to document life as it unfolds organically.

In this style of photography, images are often taken while subjects are often engrossed in their activities or simply being themselves. The photographer’s role is to observe and seize those fleeting, authentic moments that reveal the true essence of the subject.

That said, some candid photos are taken with the subject’s awareness. During a wedding, for instance, guests often know that the camera is pointed in their direction, but they still act naturally, resulting in beautiful candid shots. The key here is the authenticity of the photo; whether or not the subject knows they’re being photographed, if the image is authentic, then it’s a candid shot.

When is candid photography useful?

Candid photography is incredibly useful in various situations and genres, allowing you to capture spontaneous and natural moments.

After all, you won’t always be in a position to engage with your subject. And sometimes doing so will disrupt a natural flow of events. So when you find yourself in situations where you think you or your camera will alter the scene, it’s good to remain candid.

Here are some specific genres where candid photography shines:

• Portrait photography: Candid portraits offer a wonderful authenticity compared to posed shots. They effectively capture the true essence of your subject. During a portrait session, you can encourage your subjects to act naturally or engage in activities, discreetly photographing them as they do. You can also seize candid opportunities between poses or while transitioning from one location to another.
• Wedding and event photography: Candid wedding and event photography is very popular – and for good reason! These occasions present a multitude of possibilities, from capturing the bride getting ready to the groom adjusting his tie, and guests enjoying themselves at the reception. Candid shots in these scenarios are often effortless and stress-free, as the subjects are typically accepting of the camera’s presence while being engrossed in the main event.
• Street photography: Almost all street photography relies on candid shots taken without the subject’s consent. The goal of a street photographer is to remain unnoticed, capturing individuals in their natural states. Street candids can encompass wide street landscapes, interactions between a few subjects, or a solitary person lost in thought, walking through the rain, or simply observing their surroundings.
• Travel photography: When exploring different destinations, candid shots can help depict the unique essence of a place. Travel candid photography often resembles street photography, highlighting the people, clothing, lighting, and architecture that make a location distinctive.

Plus, taking candid photos is a fun challenge. You don’t get to direct the scene, and you have to take whatever the moment offers.

And if you’re part of the activity or event, when doing candid photography, you really get to see what is going on. Many people complain that they miss out on a group or family experience because they’re always taking pictures. If you focus more on seeing candid moments than on clicking away, you may find that you’re more in tune with events than ever before. As the great candid photographer Dorothea Lange said, “The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.”

Is it legal to take candid photos?

While candid photography without consent is generally legal in many places, such as the United States, the rules can vary depending on your location. It’s crucial to check the laws of the specific place where you plan to do candid photography to avoid any legal trouble.

That said, candid photography with consent is widely accepted and legal almost everywhere. This means that if you’re in an area where shooting without consent is prohibited, you can still capture some fantastic candid shots by simply asking for permission first. Once your subject agrees, you can take photos as they naturally go about their activities.

The best candid photography settings

What are the best camera settings for capturing good candid moments?

If you don’t understand your camera very well, then begin with Auto mode. Being on Auto means that you don’t need to think about camera settings at all. You can just focus on seeing the future and being ready for moments.

The problem, however, is that Auto mode is going to let you down quite often by capturing photos that are overexposed (too bright), underexposed (too dark), or blurry.

So you should begin to learn about ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Once you understand these three things, you’ll understand many of the technical problems in your photos.

When you’re ready to move away from Auto mode, I highly recommend using Aperture Priority along with exposure compensation. Choose the aperture for its creative effect (f/1.8 for a shallow depth of field – f/16 for a greater depth of field). Let the camera figure out the rest. Then just focus on capturing the moment. Use exposure compensation when photos keep coming out too dark or too bright.

When you’re ready for a real challenge, you can try moving onto Manual mode. But even when you’re comfortable in Manual mode, you may find yourself scrambling with settings too much while trying to capture candid moments.

When you get good at anticipating moments, you can take a couple of test shots and look at the exposure. You can adjust your settings and still be ready to capture the moment that you know is coming.

And once you’re fully comfortable with how your camera works, you’ll forget about it in the moment!

How to take stunning candid photos: 23 general tips and tricks

Struggling to take the kind of candid shots you can be proud of? Here are 16 tips to instantly improve your photos:

1. Take your camera everywhere

The best way to take spontaneous photos? Always have a camera! That way, when the moment presents itself, you can quickly flick the On button, snag a few shots, and (if all goes well!) get a great result.

When I’m on a shoot, I’ll use my DSLR – but when I’m between shoots, I carry a point-and-shoot camera. If I see a good opportunity, I’ll whip it out and capture the scene. Of course, you don’t need to head out and buy an expensive second body – these days, smartphone cameras are very high quality and more than adequate for most candid photography.

Also, taking a camera everywhere helps people become more comfortable with you taking their photo. I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out, so when I do fire it up, it’s not a signal to pose, it’s just a normal part of our interaction. And when I do take an image or two, the subjects are relaxed and the photos look natural.

2. Learn to see the future

Initially, it may feel as if you have no control over moments. Everything is chaotic and you have no idea when a moment is going to happen. But with practice, you’ll feel like you actually have a lot of control over spontaneous moments.

In order to capture good candid moments, you need to be able to see the future. Seeing the future means developing the ability to anticipate what is about to happen before it does.

Some things are easy to anticipate because they are so predictable. The sun rises and sets every day. If you want a nice photo of the sunrise you know exactly when it’s going to happen.

But how about anticipating less predictable moments? You don’t know exactly when a storm is going to arise or exactly what form it will take. If you want to photograph storms you’ll need to watch how they behave across the seasons. Where I live it’s very rare to have a thunderstorm, but you can feel it in the air when one is coming.

Still other things, such as people, seem completely unpredictable. Take toddlers for example. Who knows what they’re going to do at any moment?

But even something as seemingly random and chaotic as the behavior of toddlers is predictable. It just takes a bit longer to notice the pattern.

Patterns are the key to seeing moments before they happen.

Patterns are woven into our culture, our relationships and our personality.

Pay attention to the things you love to photograph, watch for patterns, and take note. Your ability to anticipate moments will increase over time if you observe and practice regularly.

Learn to anticipate moments by looking for patterns. Once you can do this, you’ll be able to see the future (which has benefits beyond photography). When you sense a moment approaching, the worst thing you can do is interrupt.

3. Use a long focal length

To capture candid photography without being noticed, try shooting with a long lens – a 135mm prime, an 18-200mm zoom, or a 70-200mm zoom, for instance. As you’ve probably already guessed, the farther you are from your subject, the less likely they are to know that you’re taking pictures, and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.

Depending on the environment, though, a long lens can be pretty noticeable, and it may actually make people feel uncomfortable (like they’re being spied on). So choose your lens wisely, and if you are concerned about people’s reactions, consider picking your most compact zoom.

That way, you can get your candid shots from outside people’s personal space, you can go unnoticed, and you can maintain a feeling of intimacy in your compositions.

Alternatively:

4. Use a small camera with a small lens

Another approach is to use a small camera with a small lens and get in much closer to the action. The idea here is that the small camera gives you the perception that you are less intimidating than somebody using a large DSLR setup. You are much more likely to be able to take photos without being noticed or to be ignored if you are.

For instance, you might use a smaller mirrorless camera, a point-and-shoot camera, or even your smartphone. And as for lenses, a standard 50mm f/1.8 lens can do a great job and is very inconspicuous, though if you like a wide-angle look, you might grab a 35mm prime instead!

Personally, I really enjoy using a wider lens; the beauty is that you can get in close and photograph people without them even being aware that you are doing so. How? Simply place them at the edge of the frame, or on one of the thirds. The camera will point away from them and they may not even be aware that they are being photographed.

And even if they notice you, as long as you don’t look at them or make eye contact, they will think you are photographing a completely different subject! Of course, this works best when there is something interesting there that a tourist would naturally take a photo of.

5. Kill the flash

Perhaps the most obvious way you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them? Using a flash (especially the flash on the top of your camera!). After all, there’s nothing like a blinding flash of light to get people’s attention and kill a moment.

So if possible, keep your flash off for candid shots. When you’re shooting in low light, instead of using flash, try boosting your ISO, opening up your aperture, or dropping your shutter speed.

You’ll get a brighter exposure, and you’ll avoid making your subject uncomfortable.

6. Go when the light is beautiful

Beautiful light is key to creating evocative portraits that capture the spirit and atmosphere of a place. You’ll increase your chances of creating beautiful images exponentially by going out when the light is beautiful.

Of course, when doing candid photography, you can’t always choose the lighting, the cloud cover, or the time of day – but whenever possible, get out at the end of the day during the golden hour. There is also lots of potential during dusk, especially with the mix of artificial and natural light that you find in urban environments.

7. Wait for your subject to look away or drop their pose

Capturing the perfect candid shot often requires a bit of patience and keen observation. When photographing subjects who are highly aware of your presence, such as during portrait sessions or events, it can be challenging to capture their genuine, natural expressions.

Here’s what you can do: Instead of hurriedly turning away when your subject notices you, simply give them a warm smile or act as though you’re adjusting your camera settings. You may keep their attention for a moment, but after a few beats, something magical will happen:

As they become absorbed in the flow of the activity around them, they’ll forget about your presence and start acting naturally once again. That’s when you seize the opportunity, swiftly raise your camera to your eye, and capture that spontaneous, unposed shot.

8. Let them know you’re coming

This approach obviously won’t work for certain types of candid shots, but if you’re photographing a family gathering or intimate event, it can make a big difference.

You see, at a family gathering, someone is always taking photos. Most people like to ham it up for the camera or will avoid it like the plague. Letting your family know beforehand that you’ll be taking some photos and that they should act natural will greatly increase your odds of capturing the essence of the moment.

Not everyone will heed this request, but it’s good for people to know they should generally ignore your photo-taking; that way, people won’t act unnatural, and you won’t distract them from the event.

9. Take a lot of images

Back in the film days, it was important to conserve your photos. But if you use a digital camera (and I’m guessing you do!), there’s no real need to hold back; instead, be aggressive with your shooting. Don’t be afraid to take many images of the same subject.

In fact, I’ve found that, when shooting a burst of images of a person, I can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that I’d never have captured otherwise.

So switch your camera to its continuous shooting mode (i.e., burst mode), and fire off several shots at once. You’ll significantly increase your chances of capturing an unexpectedly perfect candid image.

10. Position yourself strategically

While candid photography is all about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting a perfect shot during that split second of time, if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold, you can increase your chances of success.

So at a wedding, get to the church early (or even go to the rehearsal) and think about what will happen during the ceremony. Where should you stand to capture each moment? Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like?

If you ask these questions in advance, you won’t waste time running around and repositioning yourself when the action happens. And you’ll be in the perfect spot to capture candid moments when they do occur.

11. Carefully work each scene

Candid photography, whether it’s photojournalism, lifestyle, street, wildlife, or travel photography, is about exploring. So don’t just take one photo and walk away. Begin taking photos before the moment actually happens and continue taking photos after it has passed. Be vigilant and ready for all the other moments that are about to unfold.

Ideally, you should walk away from an encounter having learned something. Perhaps you’ve seen a deeper pattern, better predicted a moment, or were rewarded with a great photograph for being there sooner and staying longer.

And remember: candid moments are about presence. You need to be there and be part of the moment. Yes, you’re standing back just far enough to capture a photo, but you’re just as much a part of the moments you capture as the people and places in your photos.

You’re not expecting to walk into a scene, snap one amazing candid shot and move on. You’ve got to be around long enough to understand what’s going on and begin to see the future.

It’s never the moment you think. You anticipate what’s going to happen and even when you capture a great moment, there are more to come. Some will surprise you completely as you begin to see new patterns you haven’t noticed before. Patterns run pretty deep, and you need to be able to see some simple ones before the deeper ones reveal themselves.

12. Shoot through store and restaurant windows

If you’re eager to capture candid street photos but concerned about drawing attention, here’s a cool little technique: Shoot through windows of stores and restaurants. It’s a fantastic way to photograph without disturbing the natural flow of the scene.

Take a stroll through a bustling area in a nearby city, keeping an eye out for interesting subjects. As you walk, glance through the windows of establishments you pass by. Often, people inside are absorbed in their activities and don’t notice what’s happening outside, which gives you the perfect opportunity to discreetly capture candid moments.

Make sure your camera settings are adjusted to handle the lower lighting conditions indoors. When you spot a captivating subject worth photographing, swiftly raise your camera, seize the candid shot, and continue on your way!

13. Photograph people doing things

Personally, I find that images of people doing things are much more interesting than images of people sitting around doing nothing. And they tend to feature more natural compositions, too.

For one, your subject will be focused on something that adds energy to a photo. It also adds context and an element of storytelling (plus, it’ll take the focus off of you!).

Timing is everything in candid photography, so wait until your subject is fully focused on their activity. This will inject a feeling of authenticity into your shots, where your subject is unaware and the viewer can look on unseen.

Note that your subject doesn’t need to be doing something especially involved or complex – they might be dancing, talking, playing a game, etc.

14. Get your subject to interact with the environment

If you’re doing a portrait photoshoot and you want to capture some candid images, it can be a challenge to make your subject feel relaxed and act natural, especially if you’ve spent the first half of the session taking posed shots. Fortunately, you can often speed the process along by encouraging your subject to look away from the camera and engage with their surroundings.

Imagine you’re in a picturesque park. Instead of simply instructing your subject to stand and smile, invite them to have some fun with the environment around them. Encourage them to scramble up a gentle slope, lean down to catch the scent of a blooming flower, or take a joyful run down a winding forest path.

If you’re shooting in an urban setting, suggest climbing a flight of steps, gazing up at stunning architectural wonders, or even waving to people passing by. The key is to inspire your subject to interact with their surroundings naturally.

By redirecting their focus from the camera to the environment, you’ll create a relaxed atmosphere where your subject can genuinely express themselves. As they engage with the surroundings, their gestures, expressions, and body language will become more authentic, resulting in captivating candid shots that truly reflect their personality.

Remember, the more your subject immerses themselves in the environment, the less self-conscious they’ll feel about being photographed!

15. Photograph people with people

When you photograph more than one person at a time, something very interesting happens:

You introduce a relationship into the photo. Even if the two (or more) people aren’t really interacting, you’ll still get increased depth and a sense of story.

Of course, the ideal candid compositions will have some interaction between your subjects, as that will add emotion to the shot – but even without interaction, you can still capture some stunning images.

16. Shoot from the hip

Here’s a quick tip for shooting unnoticed, courtesy of street photographers:

Choose a relatively wide lens, such as a 35mm. Set your camera’s shutter to its quietest setting. Position the camera down low, either at chest height or at your hip.

And then, when your subject moves into position, fire off a burst of shots without raising the camera to your eye.

This technique can be very hit or miss, and you may want to think about zone focusing (where you prefocus your lens and use a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field). But when it works, it really works – your subject remains completely unaware of your presence, they don’t tense up or act unnatural, and you get your candid images.

17. Pretend to be photographing behind your subject

If you’re out on the street and spot a fantastic subject you want to capture candidly, play the role of a tourist. Act as if you’re photographing the broader scene: the bustling street, the picturesque park, or the city skyline. Aim your camera in different directions as though you’re contemplating various expansive compositions.

By adopting this approach, your intended candid subject will often ignore you completely. And even if they do notice, they’ll likely assume you’re photographing something else and continue going about their business. It’s a clever way to blend in and capture those authentic moments without drawing unnecessary attention.

18. Change your perspective

Photos taken from standing height can look fine, and sure, there are plenty of great shots taken with the camera held in that eye-level area. But if you want to mix things up and capture some truly striking photos, why not change your perspective?

For instance, get down low and shoot upward, or find a nice vantage point and shoot downward. You can climb stairs, walk over bridges, crouch on the ground – whatever you need to do to get the photo (while staying unnoticed).

Also, if you do like the low-angle shot but feel uncomfortable crouching while doing candid photography (it is somewhat attention-grabbing, after all!), try shooting from the hip (as discussed above). While your shots may turn out crooked, it’s an interesting effect that some photographers like and can lend a sense of randomness and realness to a scene.

19. Watch your backgrounds

When capturing candid photos, it’s easy to become hyper-focused on the people in the scene. However, it’s important to remember that while candid shots are all about the subject, the background plays a crucial role, too. A distracting or cluttered background can draw the viewer’s attention away from the subject and diminish the impact of the photo.

So before pressing the shutter, take a moment to assess the background. Ensure the backdrop features non-distracting elements, such as a stand of trees or a clean brick wall. And if your subject happens to be positioned in front of a problematic backdrop, don’t fret. Simply adjust your angle and position to find a better perspective!

Alternatively, you can also use a wide aperture to create a shallow depth of field, which will naturally blur out any distracting elements in the background. However, keep in mind that this technique works best when you are relatively close to your subject.

20. Frame images with foreground elements

If you want to create more three-dimensional, layered compositions, I highly recommend composing with your subject as the focal point – but then including an element in the foreground, such as a tree, a person’s shoulder, the frame of a doorway, a window, etc.

Feel free to get creative. The point is to add a foreground element that can contribute context and depth to the shot, but you can have fun widening your aperture for out-of-focus foreground bokeh.

The ultimate goal is to create that sense of standing outside looking in. It’s a great complement to a candid moment, and when done well, can add a sense of mystery to the composition.

21. Take posed shots into candid territory

It may sound strange, but one of my favorite times to shoot candid images is when other photographers are taking formal ones.

Why? Well, during posed images, everyone is focused on the directing photographer, not you. So if, for instance, a wedding photographer is shooting a series of posed images, you can capture some wonderful candid moments simply by standing off to the side and taking a few images of your own.

I’d also recommend zooming in with a telephoto lens to capture more intimate scenes, and you might also try zooming right out to get shots of the subject plus the photographer.

By the way, if you’re the only photographer at an event or photoshoot, and you’re the one taking the posed shots, I’d recommend continuing to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often these shots – captured moments after the posed images end – that look the best, because people relax, smile naturally, laugh, and look at each other.

22. Look for candid moments in nature

Even nature (flowers, landscapes, water) has candid moments. After all, we don’t normally pose our nature photos. We come upon nature doing something interesting and we make a photograph.

Nature’s moments are constantly changing. Think about a simple landscape. That landscape will look quite different depending on the time of day, from season to season, and in different weather.

And when photographing people, you can combine candid human moments with candid nature moments to create a more powerful shot.

For instance, combine these people moments:

• Action
• Emotion
• Mystery

With these nature moments:

• Season
• Weather
• Time of day

And see what you can create!

23. Enjoy the process

Don’t put too much pressure on yourself. An empty memory card can be as terrifying for a photographer as a blank piece of paper (or empty computer screen) is for a writer.

One way to get started is to take a photo of anything remotely interesting. It doesn’t really matter what it is, but I find that taking the first photo gets my creativity going and puts me in the right frame of mind to start seeing other images. Remember that you are there to enjoy the day, the sights, and the process of exploration and meeting new people, as well as photography.

Candid portrait photography advice

Specifically looking to capture stunning candid portraits? Below, I explain everything you need to know, including:

• My favorite ways to find candid portrait subjects
• How to capture candid portraiture without intimidating your subject
• How to develop your skills in a fun, easy way

Let’s dive right in!

1. Look for expressions that capture character

If you want to capture beautiful candid images, don’t simply set your camera to burst mode and fire away. Instead, watch your potential subject. And wait for a meaningful expression – one that really sums up their personality.

For instance, if you’re hoping to capture a nice candid shot of a fashion model, you might engage in some regular photography. Ask them to pose normally, to make their standard expressions, while you shoot.

But then, when you take short breaks from shooting, pay attention. Wait for those moments when your model is relaxed. And ask yourself: How do they behave when the camera isn’t pointing at them? How do they respond when you speak with them? What expressions do you notice? What unconscious gestures do they make?

When you see an expression that truly encapsulates their personality, capture it!

2. Make the most of random encounters

I remember my first evening taking photos in Bolivia. It was late afternoon, quickly fading to dusk, and the streets were lit by a soft red glow.

I raised my camera to take a photo of a mud-brick building. But out of the corner of my eye, I saw a small boy running down the street. He passed in front of the camera, stopped, turned toward me, and started waving his hands in the air. He obviously wanted to be in a photo, and a few seconds later, he was joined by an older boy, presumably his brother, who also posed. Then they continued on down the street and beckoned me along.

Curious, I followed, and they led me to a car parked around the corner, where their father was waiting for them. They explained what had happened, and then the father asked me to take a photo of all of them together. He was a little drunk, and he even invited me to their house for dinner. I politely declined, but I did take this image:

Is the portrait candid? I think so. The subjects knew I had a camera, but they were acting naturally, and I didn’t pose them. Regardless, the lesson is still a good one:

When you’re traveling and people are friendly, take advantage of the photo opportunities! Be open to random encounters. Recognize the possibilities that can arise.

At the very least, you will have some new stories to tell.

3. Use a small camera and lens

Technically, you can do candid portraiture with any gear, from a huge, hulking medium-format camera to a tiny smartphone device.

But my advice, based on a lot of experience, is to keep your setup as small as possible.

You see, the larger your camera and lens, the more you’ll stand out as a photographer. If you’re trying to document a wedding, your subjects will notice you before you get a chance to shoot. If you’re trying to do candid portraiture on the street, people will see you coming from a mile off and turn away.

Plus, large equipment is intimidating. A friend of mine is an experienced model, and she told me – after a shoot in which I used a small mirrorless camera and a small lens – that the smaller setup helped her feel more relaxed. She didn’t feel as much pressure to be a good model.

Even if you’re doing a mixture of posed and candid photography, a smaller camera will keep the subject more relaxed overall, which will mean more opportunities for wonderful candid frames!

That’s why I recommend using a setup like this one:

And if you find that slimming down your setup makes a big difference, go smaller! Purchase a small point-and-shoot camera, or even switch to your smartphone. (These days, smartphone cameras are capable of pretty impressive images, so don’t let technical concerns hold you back!)

4. Ask for permission – and explain why

If you’re just starting out with candid portrait photography, you may feel uncomfortable shooting people that you don’t know – such as street performers, diners, and even passersby.

My recommendation? Ask for permission, and when you do, clearly state a good reason.

First of all, giving people a reason makes them more likely to accept. You don’t seem like a random stalker if you explain why you want to photograph them, even if the reason is trivial.

Plus, if you have a reason in mind, asking for permission becomes far easier. You’ll feel justified in your approach, and so you’ll feel less awkward and shy.

For example, a few weeks ago I visited a blacksmith’s forge. The smiths there do demonstrations of older techniques for the visiting public, and I simply asked if I could take some photos while the smith was doing his demonstration. The smiths had zero issues with my request, and the result is a natural candid portrait of someone at work:

Another example: At Carnival in Cádiz, there were lots of people dressed in costume but only a few with face paint. When I saw somebody with interesting face paint, I explained that I really liked their makeup, and I asked if I could take a photo or two. In each case, the person agreed, I waited for a natural expression, then grabbed an image. Here’s one of my favorites:

5. Start a candid portraiture project

If you’re looking to really expand your candid portrait horizons, then instead of capturing random shots, I encourage you to start a project.

That way, you can tackle candid portraiture on a regular basis, and you can really dig in and elevate your skills.

The project doesn’t have to be especially complex, but it should have a clear theme or angle. For instance, you could photograph people at the park, you could photograph supermarket workers, or you could photograph cyclists.

Once you’ve identified your project topic, research your subject, figure out how to best take candid shots, and make a significant effort to shoot regularly. (Note that your project doesn’t need to only feature candid images. But if you’re looking to improve your candid portraiture, I do recommend you shoot candids whenever possible.)

Early last year, I thought it would be interesting to take some photos of people practicing parkour; this became my project idea, and I got in touch with some local traceurs through a Facebook group. Some of them were interested in a shoot, so we went out into the streets of Wellington, and they showed me parkour. I took photos and portraits as we went along. It was easy to create candid portraits because they were enjoying what they were doing and having fun!

6. Take photos of friends doing interesting things

If you’re struggling to find subjects for your candid portraits, try looking close to home.

You see, friends – and even family – are great candid photography subjects. For one, they know you, and so they’re more likely to be relaxed in your presence. Plus, you can have a fun portrait session that combines candid photography and socializing!

As I emphasized above, you’ll need to be observant, and you’ll need to snap photos when your subject isn’t paying attention to the camera – when they’ve let their guard down. It can be tough to talk with someone and take candid images, but if you’re focused, you can do it!

A piece of advice: When you tell your subject about your interest in candid portraits, set a clear theme. If your subject likes cycling, ask them to bring their bike, and prepare to take some candid portraits of a cyclist in action. And if your subject likes to play music, ask them to bring a guitar, and photograph them as they strum a few chords.

For example, a friend of mine made her own gypsy caravan. I thought it was a fantastic tiny space project, so once it was finished, I asked her if I could take some photos. She sat outside and played guitar, we talked about the project, and I made a few candid portraits:

Candid wedding photography: tips and advice

Weddings have changed drastically in the past few years. These days, couples want more from a wedding photographer than rigidly posed shots; they frequently prefer candid wedding photography because it captures the emotions of the couple and the guests enjoying themselves without needing to line everybody up in front of the camera.

Below, we share tips and advice for shooting weddings in an effective yet unobtrusive way. That way, the next time you get booked for a wedding, you’re ready to create an array of stunning candid images!

1. Always be ready

This is the biggest candid wedding photography tip that I can give you:

No matter what’s going on, always be ready to shoot.

In particular, make sure that you’re always keeping an eye out for interesting moments. You never know what will happen, and if you stop paying attention to the scene around you, there’s a chance that you’ll miss something phenomenal. It’s a good idea to frequently scan the room to check for moments in the making, and even when you have your camera to your eye, make sure you’re hyperaware of the action around you.

Of course, you can’t capture candid moments without equipment, so it’s essential that you always keep that camera ready. Make sure it’s in your hands and prepared to shoot at a moment’s notice. Set your camera according to the lighting conditions, and if necessary, use Aperture Priority mode so exposure decisions are made for you on the fly. You don’t want to be fiddling around with camera settings when the action starts!

Pro tip: Whenever you notice your battery or your memory card getting low, look for a lull in the action, then quickly swap it out. Don’t wait for your camera to die or the memory card to fill up completely; as I said above, you never know what’s going to happen, so it’s important that you’re always ready to photograph.

2. Know your equipment

I touched on this in the previous tip, but it’s so important that it deserves a section of its own. I’ve seen countless photographers miss shots while they are trying to change the camera settings – don’t be that person!

Instead, you must know your equipment like the back of your hand. Semi-automatic modes such as Aperture Priority are helpful and can relieve some of the pressure, but they’re not perfect and can cause problems from time to time, so it’s important you understand exactly how your camera works in case you need to make settings adjustments or take over completely.

Plus, even if you use Aperture Priority mode, you’ll need to select an aperture, an ISO, a metering mode, an autofocus mode, an autofocus area mode, and a white balance. In other words, you’ll need to really know what you are doing!

Here are just a few items to bear in mind:

• The shutter speed must be carefully managed to keep your shots sharp. Make sure that you’re always shooting at 1/100s or higher, and if your subject is moving, you’ll generally need to work at 1/250s, 1/500s, or even at 1/1000s.
• It’s usually a good idea to set a wider aperture to let in more light, though bear in mind that wider apertures will decrease the depth of field, so you’ll need to choose your point of focus carefully.
• When shooting indoors, you’ll generally need a higher ISO to allow for the faster shutter speeds I mentioned above. Don’t be afraid to push your camera’s ISO to 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, and beyond – though also recognize that higher ISOs tend to produce lots of noise, so you don’t want to boost the ISO more than necessary.
• If you’re shooting in RAW (which I highly recommend!), it often helps to set your camera’s white balance to Auto, then make tweaks in post-processing. You won’t sacrifice any flexibility by using such an approach – the RAW files can be effectively adjusted in a program like Lightroom – and it’ll save you from needing to adjust the WB setting as the lighting scenarios change.

By the way, you should also be able to change settings without consulting the manual or fiddling around in the menus. It can help to practice making settings adjustments while relaxing on the couch, watching a movie, talking on the phone, etc.

3. Use a telephoto zoom lens

Candid wedding photography is all about taking pictures of the bride, groom, guests, etc., without being noticed. You won’t capture beautiful candid moments if you’re hovering a few inches from the bride with a camera pointed in her face!

That’s why I highly recommend working with a telephoto zoom lens. I regularly shoot weddings with 70-200mm or even 100-400mm lenses if capturing candid moments is the priority. These longer lenses may seem unwieldy at first, but you’ll soon be impressed by how they can help you capture the action and emotions without actively distracting the people involved.

Additionally, a long zoom will help maintain a level of intimacy, which is essential in wedding photography. Try dialing in a wide aperture to really emphasize that shallow depth of field effect; it’s a great technique if you’re hoping to make the bride and groom look as if they’re in their own little world!

Of course, it’s also handy to keep a shorter lens around for wider candid scenes and other key shots. Many wedding photographers carry two cameras, each with a different lens, and I recommend you do the same. That way, you can capture plenty of powerful images – no matter your distance from the subject.

4. Don’t use flash

Plenty of wedding photographers like to use flash, especially for posed photos – but when it comes to candid wedding photoshoots, carrying a flash is a very bad idea.

Why? One surefire way to get noticed by your subjects is to fire that flash, whether it’s a dedicated flash gun or the pop-up flash on your camera. As soon as you’ve been noticed, your subjects will become self-conscious, and you’ll lose the beautiful candid effect.

And I’ll be honest: Light from a flash tends to be rather unflattering and boring. Yes, a flash can brighten things up, but if there’s a lack of light, I’d recommend boosting the exposure rather than adding flash. You might try widening the aperture, increasing the ISO, or slowing the shutter speed (if you have room). You can also shoot in areas of the room with more illumination, though don’t make this a habit; you don’t want to miss shots in the middle of the dance floor because you’re always hanging out by a window!

5. Make sure you plan ahead

As a candid wedding photographer, it is your job to predict what is going to happen before it does (or, at least, take a calculated guess!). If you can, I’d suggest visiting the location before the wedding and really getting a feel for the space and the lighting. While you’re there, see if you can identify potential backgrounds for photos; even if you don’t end up using them, it helps to have a few ideas in your back pocket, just in case.

If you’re unable to visit the location beforehand, then at least arrive at the venue well before the function is to start. Walk around, think about possible photo ideas, and identify any potential obstacles (such as unusually dark rooms or strong backlighting).

Then, when it’s time for the wedding to start, don’t get so caught up in the flow of the proceedings that you forget all about your careful planning and scouting. Be sure to remember your photo ideas and keep a cool head. A little bit of planning goes a long way in getting some great shots!

A guide to candid photography: final words

Hopefully, you now feel much more confident as a candid photographer, and you’re ready to start taking some beautiful shots of your own! Whether you’re hoping to snap candid portraits that reveal the true essence of your subject, capture some magical candid wedding photos, or explore new destinations with your camera, candid photography opens up a world of possibilities.

Remember that candid shooting is a powerful tool in your creative arsenal, allowing you to capture the raw, unfiltered moments that make life truly remarkable – so whenever you get the chance, give it a try!

Now over to you:

What type of candid photography do you plan to try? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Candid photography FAQ

The post Candid Photography: The Essential Guide (+34 Expert Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Memory cards are an essential part of digital photography. They record your precious files and keep them safe until you’re able to transfer them to your (hopefully) full-fledged storage solution – which means that it’s essential that you understand how to use memory cards correctly.

After all, a properly cared-for memory card will often perform flawlessly for years – while a poorly looked-after card will be prone to errors, corruption, and loss of files.

In this article, I share 18 tips for keeping your memory cards in good condition. I explain how you should correctly eject your cards, how often (and when) you should format your cards, and more.

Let’s dive right in!

1. Carry backup cards whenever you shoot

Card failure is unpredictable, and the last thing you want is to miss a once-in-a-lifetime shot because your only card decided to act up.

Therefore, I’ve made it a habit to carry at least three cards with me on every shoot. And while it might seem excessive, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Imagine you’re capturing a breathtaking sunset or a candid moment at a child’s birthday party. Suddenly, your camera stops working due to a card error. If you have a backup, you just switch cards and continue shooting. But without a backup, that moment is lost forever. (Of course, it’s not just about having extras; it’s also about ensuring you have enough storage to keep shooting without worries.)

For different shoots, the backup cards you choose can vary. For a casual day out, a couple of smaller capacity cards might suffice. But for a professional gig, you might want to carry a handful of larger, high-speed cards. These backups will be your photography lifeline.

By the way, one thing I’ve noticed that’s true, at least for myself: having backup cards provides immense peace of mind. When you’re focused on getting the perfect shot, the last thing you want is to worry about storage space or card failure. The backups serve as a guarantee that no matter what happens, your photography can go on uninterrupted.

2. If disaster strikes, stop shooting

If you’re in the middle of a photoshoot and you run into a memory card problem – for instance, you accidentally delete your images or see a card error message – then stop photographing immediately.

Turn off your camera, eject the card, and store it in a safe place. When you run into one of these problems, all is not lost, and you may still be able to recover the images. However, it’s important that you stop using the card; otherwise, you might overwrite the files. Data recovery services and other tools are often very effective, especially when recovering accidentally deleted files, but once an image is overwritten, then it’s often lost forever.

If you do have a memory card issue while shooting, you can always continue the session with another card. The key is to safely remove the problematic card as soon as possible.

3. Treat your cards well

It’s crucial to treat your memory cards with care, especially when you’re out in difficult conditions. In the heat of the moment, switching cards quickly might seem necessary, but it’s also essential to take the time to handle them properly. I’ve seen too many instances where a little negligence led to big problems. A few tips here:

First, always ensure your hands are clean when handling memory cards. Dirt and oils don’t mesh well will the delicate connectors. And hold the cards gently by the edges, avoiding the gold contacts. This might sound like overkill, but it’s these small habits that can prolong the life of your cards.

Another key point is to be focused when handling your cards. Distractions can lead to accidental drops, especially in outdoor environments. I’ve heard of photographers dropping cards into puddles. Don’t let that be you!

Proper storage is also vital. When not in use, keep your cards in a protective case to shield them from dust, moisture, and physical damage. Avoid extreme temperatures and magnetic sources as these can damage the data. Think of your memory cards as fragile; that way, you’ll have the best shot at preserving the images they hold.

4. Avoid deleting files one by one on your camera

Did you know that repeatedly deleting images from an in-camera card while the card is still in your camera can actually shorten that card’s life? It’s true.

The rule is that the fewer times you add or remove data on your card, the better. So instead of selectively deleting files as you shoot, aim to erase all the images at once after uploading them to your computer. That way, you delete the files in a single cycle, not one at a time.

(Or better yet, use the Format function on your camera to wipe the card before each new photoshoot!)

5. Remove cards safely from your computer

It’s tempting to connect a memory card to your computer, transfer the images, and then pull it out of the card reader slot.

But that’s an easy way to cause problems, so after uploading images to your computer, make sure you take the time to eject the card before removing it from your card reader.

(If you use a Mac, you’ll probably need to right-click the relevant drive and hit Eject. If you use a Windows PC, you’ll need to use the Safely Remove Hardware option in your system tray.)

6. Multiple small cards can be better than one big card

These days, you can grab memory cards that store 128 GB, 256 GB, and beyond. But while these products do offer significant advantages – you need to carry far fewer cards, for one! – they also come with a significant drawback: You’re reliant on one (or a few) cards to get you through lengthy photoshoots and even week-long photo adventures.

I myself learned this lesson on a recent trip; I had a memory card die on me, and if I only owned one huge card, I would’ve been unable to continue using my camera. That’s why it’s at least worth considering multi-card storage solutions (plus, if you do lose the data on one card, not all of your images from a shoot will be lost).

7. Keep your cards organized

With memory cards, a little organization can go a long way! It’s easy to mix up cards when you’re juggling multiple shoots or locations. You don’t want to reach for a card during an important shoot, only to find it full. Or worse, realize that you just formatted a card that holds valuable images.

I’ve found that a clear system can be incredibly helpful. I use a memory card case for this purpose. My fresh cards always go on the left side, and the used ones on the right. It’s simple but effective. When I’m in the field, this system saves me from second-guessing. I always know exactly where my empty cards are.

Of course, what works for me might not work for you. Some photographers prefer labeling their cards with stickers or using different colored cases. The key is consistency. Stick to your chosen method so it becomes second nature.

8. Avoid filling your cards completely

My friend recently had an issue with a memory card. When he took it into the store, the clerk asked if he’d completely filled the card with images – and when he nodded, he was told that this could occasionally cause problems with some types of cards.

Let me be clear: I’ve not heard this advice before, and I’m somewhat skeptical about it myself, but it’s probably worth keeping in mind. The advice would be to regularly take images off your cards rather than only removing images when the cards are full; this is a good idea anyway because it’ll prevent significant heartbreak if you lose the card or the files are corrupted.

9. Periodically reformat your cards

This memory card tip is quick but essential:

Reformat your memory cards every so often, and do it with your camera, not your computer. This will clean the card and get it ready for a new batch of images. Of course, you should only do this after you’ve downloaded all files – otherwise, you’ll lose them!

10. Format your memory cards in the right camera

As I discussed in the previous tip, it’s a good idea to format your memory card in a camera. But you shouldn’t format the card in just any camera; instead, make sure you format it in the camera you plan to shoot with.

For instance, if you’ve been using your card in your Canon DSLR but want to start using it in your Canon mirrorless camera, you should safely store all the images, then reformat the card when you put it in the mirrorless camera for the first time.

11. Switch off your camera before removing the memory card

Years ago, it was said that a camera could give a card “voltage shock” when the card was pulled out of the camera without first turning the camera off. But while manufacturers seem to have since made improvements in this area, it’s better to be safe than sorry! That’s why I recommend you always turn off your camera before you remove a card.

(Additionally, if your camera is on, it might still be in the process of writing images – and if you remove the card, those images may become corrupted or go unwritten.)

12. Transfer photos as soon as you can

There’s a simple rule I follow: transfer your photos as soon as possible. Why? Memory cards are reliable, but they’re not infallible. The longer your images sit on a card, the higher the risk of loss, either through card failure or misplacement.

I’ve made it a habit: every time I return from a shoot, I transfer my images to my desktop hard drives. Then, once the images are safely transferred and backed up, I delete them from the card. This routine ensures I always have a fresh card ready for my next adventure.

But there’s another reason for this habit: untransferred images are easily forgotten. You might capture an amazing moment, only to forget about its impact and relevance when it sits unseen on a card for months.

13. Keep your camera up to date

Every so often, camera manufacturers will release firmware updates, which keep your camera up to date and include fixes for errors or problems that are identified with the camera.

Some of these fixes can relate to the camera’s interaction with the memory card, so I encourage you to check for camera firmware updates every few months and download them as needed.

14. Periodically update your cards

Memory cards can last a long time – even years. However, like all electronics, they wear down with constant use, so it’s important that you update your set of cards periodically to prevent issues.

Fortunately, memory card prices are always dropping, so updating your cards has become a surprisingly inexpensive task!

15. Replace batteries before they die

When you’re on a photoshoot, it’s important that you keep an eye on your battery levels – and if the battery does get low, either pause for a recharge or swap it out for a fresh one.

You see, when a battery runs out just as you take a shot, it can prevent your camera from writing the image to your card. This can also cause card errors, so make sure you keep an eye on those batteries!

16. Don’t switch off your camera too quickly after shooting

This one really depends on your camera model. If you fire off a burst of photos, your camera will need a little time to write all of the data to the memory card – and if you switch the camera off during this process, some cameras will simply lose the images and even end up with errors.

However, recent models will continue buffering even after you switch them off (thus avoiding the problem). If you’re not sure how your camera handles the issue, check the manual or do some Googling.

17. Keep your memory cards safe

Perhaps this memory card tip should go without saying, but whenever you’re shooting, do what you can to keep your cards safe.

Make sure the cards stay dry and clean – a dedicated memory card case is perfect for this – don’t expose them to extreme temperatures, don’t drop, bend, or puncture them, and don’t expose them to electromagnetic currents.

That way, your cards remain in good condition for years!

18. Prepare your cards in case they’re lost

This last one is optional, but if you’re afraid that you might lose your camera and/or memory card, you might try taking a picture of a luggage tag or business card complete with your contact details, then keep it as the first image on each of your memory cards.

Then lock the image so it’s not deleted. If you lose your camera or card and an honest person finds it, they’ll hopefully see the image and get in touch!

How to use camera memory cards: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to take care of your memory cards – and you’re well-equipped to prevent common card errors.

Bottom line: Having backup cards, organizing them effectively, transferring photos promptly, treating them with care, and more – these aren’t just recommendations, they’re necessities for any photographer who values their work. Implementing these habits will save you from the heartache and frustration that come with memory card mishaps.

So remember the tips I’ve shared, keep your memory cards safe, and (with a bit of luck) you won’t run into any issues.

Now over to you:

Do you have any memory card tips that I missed? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Use Camera Memory Cards: 18 Essential Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Capturing sharp photos is a fundamental goal for any photographer, from the enthusiastic beginner to the seasoned pro; after all, sharp images not only convey professionalism but also bring your subjects to life by highlighting details that might otherwise go unnoticed.

Achieving this clarity, however, isn’t always straightforward. If you’re reading this article, you’re probably struggling with some sharpness issues of your own – and fortunately, I can help.

You see, while achieving clean, crisp, sharp photos may seem difficult, it’s actually easier than you might think. Blurry images are caused by a few common technical factors, and if you know how to counteract them, you’ll be able to capture consistently sharp shots.

And that’s what I’ll share in this article today: my best tips, techniques, and secrets so you can reduce image softness and capture the kind of crisp, sharp photos that’ll impress even a professional. So whether you’re a beginner struggling to deal with blur, or an experienced photographer looking for that extra bit of crispness, read on!

1. Hold your camera correctly

What’s the number one most common cause of image blur?

Camera shake.

When you press the shutter button, if your camera is moving even imperceptibly, you may end up with a blurry photo. This is especially true when shooting with telephoto lenses, at high magnifications, or in low light.

That’s why, if you’re looking to take sharper photos, you should brush up on your handholding technique. Grip your camera in one hand and cup a second hand under the lens. Keep the camera close to your body, keep your elbows tight, and – when possible – support yourself with a wall, a tree, or another solid object.

Also, make sure to press the shutter button gently; don’t punch at it.

Proper handholding technique will provide a major increase in sharpness, but it’s not foolproof. If you shoot in low light, you may struggle to get sharp handheld shots, which is where my next tip comes in handy:

2. Use a tripod

If sharp photos are your goal, then using a tripod is the absolute best thing you can do for yourself.

You’ll need to buy a sturdy tripod, though; a cheap, plasticky model will offer limited gains (and may even increase the blur, depending on other factors).

If you’re shooting long exposures at night, then a tripod is essential. I’d also recommend taking a tripod for most landscape photography, as well as situations where you’re using a long lens.

Before grabbing your tripod, though, ask yourself: Is it really practical to bring this with me? If your tripod is relatively heavy and you’re going on a long hike or traveling by plane, you may be better off without it. (Pro tip: If you like to do photography while traveling, invest in a good travel tripod. They’re sturdy and compact!)

3. Use a remote release

While a tripod is a go-to solution for eliminating camera shake, there’s another factor to consider: the vibration caused by pressing the shutter button. This is where a remote release becomes invaluable; it lets you trigger your camera’s shutter without physically touching the camera, ensuring that no inadvertent movement disrupts your shot.

Remote releases sync with your camera and can be either wired or wireless. They are typically affordable and easy to use, making them a great addition to your photography kit. If you’re looking to save money, or if you don’t have a remote release on hand when you set off for a photoshoot, your camera’s self-timer function is an effective alternative. With the self-timer, you can press the shutter button and then step away, allowing any vibrations to settle before the camera takes the photo.

This technique is particularly useful for long-exposure photography, macro photography, or any situation where even the slightest camera movement could compromise the sharpness of your image.

4. Use mirror lock-up

For those using DSLR cameras, mirror slap is a term you might be familiar with. It refers to the vibrations caused by the camera’s mirror flipping up when the shutter button is pressed. While this isn’t an issue with mirrorless cameras, DSLR users need to be mindful, especially when shooting with slower shutter speeds; the mirror slap can cause noticeable blur in your photos.

Fortunately, there’s an easy solution: use the mirror lock-up feature. This function allows you to flip the mirror up well before taking the shot, thereby eliminating any mirror slap at the moment of exposure. Using mirror lock-up is particularly crucial when capturing long-exposure images, where even the slightest movement can affect image sharpness. On the other hand, if you’re using a fast shutter speed, taking precautions against mirror slap isn’t necessary.

An alternative here is to use your camera’s Live View mode. When Live View is activated, the mirror is flipped up in advance in order to let you see the shot through the LCD screen.

5. Use your camera’s electronic shutter

Shutter shock is another often-overlooked factor that can impact the sharpness of your photos, especially when using slower shutter speeds. It occurs due to the internal movement of your camera’s mechanical shutter, which can introduce vibrations and result in a slight blur in your images. Even if you’ve done everything else perfectly, shutter shock can still compromise the sharpness you’re striving for.

Fortunately, there’s a simple solution: use your camera’s electronic shutter. Most modern mirrorless cameras come equipped with this feature. For DSLR users, though a fully electronic shutter won’t be available, you’ll often find an Electronic Front-Curtain Shutter (EFCS) option in your camera settings. EFCS starts the exposure electronically, which prevents the vibrations caused by the mechanical shutter movement.

By the way, a benefit of using EFCS over the electronic shutter is the avoidance of rolling shutter distortion. This is particularly useful when photographing fast-moving subjects. Rolling shutter distortion can create a jello-like effect in your images, where straight lines appear curved or skewed due to the rapid movement. By starting the exposure electronically but finishing it mechanically – which is the exact process used by the EFCS setting – you prevent this issue, resulting in more natural-looking photos.

6. Select a fast shutter speed

Here’s another major culprit of blurry photos:

A too-slow shutter speed.

You see, the shutter speed refers to the length of time the camera sensor is exposed to the light. And if the shutter speed is too long, elements of your image will have time to move (and your setup will have time to shake, as well).

If you’re using a tripod and your subject is stationary (e.g., a desert landscape), you generally don’t need to worry about using a fast shutter speed. But if you’re handholding your camera or you’re hoping to freeze fast action, then a fast shutter speed is essential.

How do you pick the right shutter speed for tack-sharp images? If your subject is stationary, use the reciprocal “rule” for handholding:

Your shutter speed should be faster than the lens’s focal length.

So if your lens is 50mm, then shoot at 1/50s or above. If your lens is 100mm, then shoot at 1/100s and above. If your lens is 200mm, then shoot at 1/200s and above. Make sense?

The rule isn’t perfect, and I recommend choosing your shutter speed conservatively (a too-fast shutter speed is rarely harmful). In particular, you’ll need to err on the side of caution when using a long lens, shooting at high magnifications, or shooting with an unstable foundation (e.g., you’re standing on a chair).

Keep in mind that you cannot choose your shutter speed in isolation. If you increase the shutter speed, your images will turn out darker – unless you increase the ISO or widen the aperture to balance out the exposure.

7. Choose a narrow aperture

Aperture impacts the depth of field (the window of focus) in your images. And another reason for a blurry shot is either missed focus or a too-thin depth of field.

Now, by narrowing your aperture, you’ll increase the window of focus in your images. An aperture of f/16 may keep the entire scene sharp (depending on various factors, including your lens’s focal length). Whereas an aperture of f/2.8 will generally give a tiny window of sharpness.

So if your images are blurry because the depth of field is too thin, just dial in an aperture of f/8, f/11, or even f/16, and you should see a significant increase in sharpness.

Technically, if your images are blurry because you missed focus, you should work on your focusing technique (as I discuss below). But by narrowing the aperture (and consequently deepening the depth of field), you can give yourself a bit of extra leeway when shooting.

Note that narrowing the aperture will also darken the image, so you’ll need to keep an eye on your exposure as you make adjustments. You can compensate by lowering the shutter speed or raising the ISO, but these have significant consequences, as I explain throughout this article.

8. Keep your ISO as low as possible

In several of the above tips, I’ve discussed the possibility of raising your ISO for a brighter exposure – and in certain cases, this is a good idea. A high ISO will increase the image exposure so you get a detailed photo.

However, high ISOs come with a downside, called noise. Noise is essentially little speckles of light and color across your shots, and when it gets out of hand, it can seriously impact sharpness.

So what ISO should you use for sharp images? It depends on your camera, and high-ISO noise performance is improving all the time. These days, you can often get away with an ISO of up to 800 or 1600, especially if you use a recent full-frame camera.

And if you’re in a situation where you need a fast shutter speed (e.g., you’re shooting an indoor sport), it’s better to boost the ISO than to underexpose all your photos.

But whenever possible, set your ISO to its base value. That’s how you’ll get the sharpest photos.

(Note that you can also reduce noise in post-processing. But this generally comes with a slight dip in image quality, so be careful!)

9. Turn on your image stabilization

Many cameras and lenses offer image stabilization, which is designed to cleverly counteract camera shake.

So if your equipment has this option, use it. Image stabilization certainly isn’t perfect, but it’ll let you handhold at very slow shutter speeds, especially if you’re using top-of-the-line image-stabilized equipment. In some low-light situations, you can even get away without using a tripod.

Keep in mind that image stabilization helps with camera movement but not subject movement – so if you’re shooting low-light action, it won’t offer improved sharpness (though a few lenses do offer sharpness gains when panning in low light; for more details, consult your lens manual).

And one more thing:

If you mount your camera to a tripod and drop the shutter speed below 1/80s or so, then turn off image stabilization. You won’t need the stabilization – your tripod will keep your pictures sharp – and active image stabilization on a rock-solid base can actually increase blur.

10. Improve your focusing technique (and use the right settings)

If you often find that the wrong part of your photo is sharp, then you’re dealing with a focusing issue.

First, I’d recommend checking your focusing settings. When photographing stationary subjects, make sure your camera is set to AF-S (One-Shot AF on Canon). And when photographing moving subjects, set your camera to AF-C (AI-Servo on Canon).

Also, adjust your focusing points. The best choice will depend on the scenario, but a single-point setting generally works for still subjects, while a group of AF points or some form of AF tracking is better for moving subjects.

When focusing on fast-moving subjects, make sure to look through the viewfinder, not the LCD. And pan your camera along with the subjects (and continue to pan, even after you’ve hit the shutter button).

When focusing on stationary subjects, it’s often best to use the focus-and-recompose technique, where you grab focus on your area of interest, continue to half-press the shutter button (this will lock focus), then recompose until you get the result you want. Only then should you press the shutter button down the rest of the way.

11. Consider using manual focus

In today’s world of advanced autofocus systems, the idea of using manual focus might seem outdated. However, manual focus offers a level of control and precision that autofocus sometimes can’t match, especially in challenging conditions. It’s particularly useful when you’re working in near darkness or shooting subjects at close range. In these scenarios, your camera’s autofocus might struggle and repeatedly miss the mark. That’s when switching to manual focus can make a huge difference.

You’ll typically find a switch on your lens barrel to shift from autofocus to manual focus. Once you’ve made the switch, it’s all about fine-tuning the focus manually. This is done by gently turning the focus ring on your lens barrel. It might feel slow, especially if you’re used to the speed of autofocus, but the accuracy you gain is well worth the extra time.

When focusing manually, you can use the viewfinder to eyeball your subject. But for more distant subjects or to ensure even greater accuracy, consider using the magnification feature on your camera’s LCD screen. This will give you a much better view of your focus point, allowing you to make very precise adjustments.

12. Make sure your lenses are sharp

This one is for DSLR and mirrorless owners:

Invest in the best lenses you can afford, because they can majorly impact image sharpness.

Kit zooms (such as the 18-55mm glass that’s often bundled with beginner cameras) tend to be on the soft side, especially compared to pro-level lenses offered by major lens manufacturers.

If you don’t have a big budget but you want to upgrade your lenses, check out fixed-focal-length options (called primes). These tend to cost very little, yet the image quality is outstanding.

Alternatively, you can look for pro-level zooms on the used market; you can often grab them for half the price you’d pay for a new item.

Shortly after buying my first DSLR, I was in the market for an everyday zoom lens that would give me both wide and telephoto zoom capabilities. I bought a Canon EF 28-135mm lens. It was a good lens (and reasonably priced), but the sharpness was lacking. A few months later, I borrowed a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L lens (“L” is Canon’s professional series of lenses), and I was amazed by the difference in sharpness. While the first lens was good for what I paid for it, I ended up going for an upgrade (and the new lens is almost permanently attached to my camera!).

By the way, before you go spend a fortune on new glass, it’s worth asking: Are my lenses really that soft? Sure, you may not use thousand-dollar lenses, but plenty of lenses are good enough, especially if you mostly just share your images on social media.

13. Get your eyes checked

It may surprise you, but poor vision can decrease image sharpness, too! You may fail to acquire perfect focus, you may accidentally focus in the wrong place, or you might not notice if your lens has a focusing problem.

So get your eyes checked! I recently got mine tested for the first time in a number of years, and I was surprised to find that they’d deteriorated significantly. Getting new glasses improved a number of areas of my life, one of which was my photography.

On a related note, if your camera has a diopter, then adjust it. A diopter is a little wheel positioned next to your viewfinder, and it lets you tweak the sharpness of the viewfinder image. The diopter is particularly useful for people with poor eyesight because it can compensate for bad vision (that way, you won’t have to wear glasses when out shooting!).

14. Clean your equipment

Over time, your lenses will pick up dirt, dust, smudges, fingerprints, and various other items – all of which can decrease sharpness.

So purchase a camera cleaning kit (you can buy them on Amazon for just a few dollars), then dedicate an hour or so to cleaning all your lenses. You’ll need to work carefully, because bad cleaning technique can permanently scratch or stain your lens elements.

Similarly, if you have a DSLR or mirrorless camera, dust can get into the sensor and cause unwanted blotches. I’d recommend letting professionals handle a sensor clean – it can be damaging when done wrong – but if you’ve noticed unpleasant spots all across your pictures, then it might be time to get one done.

15. Use your lens’s aperture sweet spot

As you adjust your lens’s aperture, the image will become softer and sharper depending on the setting.

Wide apertures, such as f/2.8, tend to be softer, whereas the “sweet spot” range is generally around f/8. (Go too narrow, and you’ll start to see softening due to diffraction, so I’d recommend stopping before f/13 or so.)

Of course, the specifics depend on your lenses, so be sure to carefully test each one; take a series of shots at different apertures, then pixel-peep on your computer to identify the sharpest files.

By the way, if you own a zoom lens, you may also want to test sharpness across its focal length range. Many zooms get softer as you move toward the extremes, and by identifying the optimal focal lengths, you can get even sharper images.

16. Fill the frame with your subject

Another aspect that can impact the perceived sharpness of your images is how much you crop in post-processing. Even high-resolution cameras show a reduction in image quality with significant cropping. And if your lenses aren’t top-tier, this quality reduction can become a problem even with moderate cropping.

By composing your shot to include your subject fully, you minimize the need for cropping later. This approach not only preserves image quality but also encourages you to think more critically about your composition. It’s a practice that pushes you to consider your positioning, the lens you choose, and how you frame your subject.

Of course, you don’t have to fill the frame obsessively – sometimes, cropping is the only option – but the more you can get it right in camera, the better your results will be.

17. Apply sharpening in post-processing

When you shoot in RAW, which is something I highly recommend for quality and flexibility, your images might initially appear a bit soft or blurry. This isn’t a flaw; most cameras are designed to soften images slightly to avoid moire, a digital imaging artifact. And since RAW files are unprocessed, they lack the in-camera sharpening applied to JPEGs.

(JPEGs, in contrast, look sharper straight out of the camera due to automatic processing.)

To bring your RAW photos up to par with JPEG sharpness, it’s essential to add some sharpening during post-processing. This step, often overlooked, can transform your images from good to great. A bit of global sharpening can help enhance the overall clarity of your photo.

But don’t stop there; applying targeted sharpening to areas rich in detail can make those elements pop, adding depth and texture to your image.

Additionally, when you downsize an image for web or print, you often introduce a slight softness. To counter this, apply a touch of sharpening upon export. This will ensure your images retain their crispness and detail.

Just remember: with sharpening, less is often more. Over-sharpening can lead to unnatural-looking images and amplify noise. The key is to strike a balance, enhancing the sharpness while maintaining the natural quality of your photographs.

How to take sharp images: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know that capturing sharp photos isn’t hard – it simply involves improving your knowledge and technique. From investing in a tripod and a remote release for stability to applying a bit of sharpening in post-processing, each method will contribute to the overall sharpness of your images.

So follow the tips I’ve shared above, and your images are basically guaranteed to improve. Keep experimenting, keep learning, and most importantly, keep shooting. The journey to capturing sharper images is continuous, and with each shot, you refine your skills!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use? And do you have any tips of your own for taking sharp photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Take Sharp Images (17 Essential Methods) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

A note on authorship: This article was updated in October 2023 with contributions from seven expert photographers: Darren Rowse, Jim Hamel, Jeremy Flint, Alex Morrison, Amar Ramesh, Nisha Ramroop, and Jaymes Dempsey.

If you’ve ever stood in front of a stunning vista, camera in hand, and wondered how to capture its grandeur, you’re not alone. Every great landscape image includes a great composition, but understanding what composition is, what it does, and how you can use it to improve your scenic shots can be intensely daunting.

Fortunately, landscape photography composition isn’t as challenging as it might seem. And in this article, I break it all down for you. I start with the basics, then I continue on to share 17 effective landscape photography composition tips so that you can start creating beautiful images. as soon as possible.

Specifically, you’ll discover:

• How to draw the viewer straight into the scene (and keep them wanting more!)
• How to position your horizons for maximum dynamism and balance
• A simple trick for minimalistic landscape shots
• A cool technique to focus the viewer exactly where you want them
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to take your landscape compositions to the next level, let’s dive right in!

What is composition in landscape photography?

You’ve likely heard the term “composition” thrown around a lot, but what does it really mean? Composition involves the thoughtful arrangement of elements within your frame. For landscape photographers, it’s all about where to place the horizon, what to include in the foreground, and what should occupy your background.

When determining a landscape photo composition, you’ll often need to ask yourself a handful of key questions:

• What should my main subjects(s) be?
• Where should I position them in the frame?
• Does the scene have plenty of depth?
• Have I removed all distractions from the shot?
• Did I choose a good angle to showcase the landscape?

When you’re just getting started, it can be helpful to mentally run through a checklist before you capture each shot. Before you know it, however, you’ll be setting up your shots without even having to think twice.

The importance of mastering landscape composition

Mastering composition isn’t just for show. It serves a bigger purpose: to create images that captivate your audience. What makes an image engaging? The answer often lies in how well you’ve positioned the different elements within the frame.

A well-composed landscape shot typically has a balanced feel, and you can frequently sense the depth, almost as if you could step right into the picture. Good compositions often add dynamism to your photos; the arrangements guide the viewer’s eyes, making them linger on the details you want to emphasize.

The bottom line is that the better your compositional skills, the more striking your photos will be. If you’re just getting started with landscape photography, all this may seem a bit overwhelming, but don’t worry: landscape photographers have developed plenty of easy-to-apply techniques that work great for snappers of all levels, and they don’t require any technical wizardry to pull off!

17 tips to improve your landscape photography compositions

You know all about what landscape composition is and why it’s important. Now let’s take a deep dive into the approaches you can use to create beautiful results, including basic guidelines like the rule of thirds and leading lines as well as more advanced techniques such as patterns and color harmonies.

1. Include a main subject to engage the viewer

To instantly level up your landscape compositions, here’s how you should start:

By including a clear, identifiable subject in each photo.

The subject can be anything: a rock. A mountain. A river. A shell on the beach. Waves crashing on the shore. Lightning in the sky.

The point is to include at least one element in your photo that a viewer can latch onto – something that sucks them into the frame and piques their interest. Otherwise, the viewer will become confused. They won’t know where to focus, so they’ll move on to a different image and never look back.

Is it okay to include multiple interesting subjects? Absolutely! In fact, many landscape photographers these days like to pack both a foreground subject and a background subject into a single photo. But make sure the subjects complement one another and be careful not to include so many subjects that the viewer no longer has a place to focus. When in doubt, keep it simple.

2. Use the rule of thirds to position your key elements

The rule of thirds is one of my favorite landscape composition tools. It’s a great way for beginners to get started with composition, and it gives you an easy way to arrange key elements within the frame (e.g., your main subject, your horizon, and other supporting elements).

If you’re unfamiliar with the rule of thirds, here’s a quick explanation:

The rule of thirds tells you to split your composition into vertical and horizontal thirds so you end up with a series of gridlines (displayed below). To create the most powerful compositions, you should place compositional elements along those gridlines and at their intersection points.

This often comes into play when working with horizon lines. Instead of putting the horizon smack-dab in the center of the frame, you can put it along the top rule of thirds gridline (a good idea if your foreground is especially interesting) or along the bottom rule of thirds gridline (a good idea if your sky is colorful or dramatic).

For this image, the blowing sand in the foreground is stunning – so the photographer chose to put the horizon along the upper gridline:

You can also use the rule of thirds to position your main subject. You might put the subject along one of the vertical gridlines, or – even better – at an intersection point. In fact, the rule of thirds gridline intersections are sometimes referred to as power points because they create such compelling compositions.

A quick word of caution, though:

The rule of thirds is a helpful technique. But despite the name, it’s not a landscape composition rule. Rather, it’s a guideline, so you don’t need to follow it all the time. Instead, use it when it works, and break it when it doesn’t.

Make sense?

3. Use foreground interest to create depth

Most landscape photos, even the mediocre ones, include background interest (such as a distant mountain, a dramatic sunset, or a house on a cliff).

But if you want to really take your landscapes to the next level, I highly recommend including foreground interest, which should sit somewhere between your camera and the background. (This is also referred to as the near-far composition technique.)

It’s a powerful tool, one that’s insanely popular among today’s professional landscape photographers. Check out the work of popular landscape shooters on Instagram or 500px, and you’ll see thousands of stunning near-far compositions featuring:

• Foreground logs and background waterfalls
• Foreground rocks and background sunsets
• Foreground flowers and background mountains

And the reason this technique is so popular? It helps create the illusion of depth in a scene.

For instance, a photo of a distant mountain can look nice, but it often appears flat.

But add some flowers or grass close to the camera, and the whole composition immediately deepens. The viewer first focuses on the foreground grass, then moves into the midground, and then finally sees the stunning mountain in the background:

So the next time you find a beautiful background subject, like the mountain I mentioned above…

…take a few moments to look for foreground interest. Then include both foreground and background in a single shot. (It can also help to use a wide-angle lens and get down low; that will magnify the foreground element and make it loom large in the frame, sucking the viewer right in.)

Note that the foreground interest can be a discrete subject, like a patch of grass. Or, as I discuss in the next tip, it can be a linear element that leads the eye into the frame:

4. Use leading lines to suck the viewer into the scene

Leading lines are lines that draw the viewer into the scene. They generally start in the foreground of the composition, then move back, back, back…until they reach a distant subject.

In the photo below, the road acts as a leading line, which moves the viewer toward the beautiful sunset:

The road isn’t really a discrete subject, but it does provide foreground interest, and it moves the viewer toward the background.

By the way, you can make leading lines out of pretty much anything. I highly recommend you take a look at some of your favorite landscape photography and see how it incorporates leading lines; you’ll find all sorts of creative compositions with lines created out of roads, rivers, fallen trees, ferns, lines in the dirt, and much, much more.

5. Change your angle for a unique perspective

This one’s a simple composition trick that works for pretty much any type of photography:

If you feel like you’re starting to capture the same old images over and over again, put some real effort into picking your angle.

Most beginner landscape photographers shoot at eye level. But while you can certainly get great images that way, it often pays to go beyond the standing shot. Try getting down low over a foreground element; it’ll create extra depth, plus it’ll help draw the viewer into the frame.

Alternatively, find a vantage point and get up high. (A drone can be hugely useful here!) From an elevated perspective, the scene will look far more abstract, and you’ll capture stunning images that convey the incredible scope of the landscape.

You can also carefully adjust your angle to block out distracting elements and create interesting framing opportunities (see below!). Sometimes, a couple of steps to the right or the left is all it takes to create a stunningly original composition.

6. Photograph with a tripod

I can’t stress enough how valuable a tripod can be for landscape photography, not just to capture sharp images but also for composition.

You see, when you set up a tripod, you’re forced to slow down – and when you’re not rushing, you naturally pay more attention. You notice how the foreground plays against the backdrop. You start to scrutinize the edges of your frame. Are there any distractions that need to be eliminated? What about gorgeous elements that lie just outside the frame but could look great as part of the shot?

You might think that tripods are a hassle, and in a way, you’re right. They’re bulky and setting them up takes time. But in the context of composition, a tripod can be a game-changer. The level of deliberation it encourages will inevitably elevate the quality of your work.

Therefore, even when you have enough light to shoot sharp handheld shots, I strongly recommend using a tripod for the sake of better compositions!

7. Use lots of negative space to create minimalist landscape compositions

These days, minimalism is all the rage in landscape photography. Here’s how it works:

First, find a scene full of negative space. (Negative space refers to “empty” areas in the composition, like a long stretch of blue sky, a swathe of green grass, a smooth, barren beach, etc.)

Second, find a small, isolated, lonely-looking subject, like a tree in a field, a rock jutting out from a flat landscape, or even a person.

Third, position your isolated subject so it’s small in the frame, and it’s surrounded by plenty of negative space. Here, it often pays to break the rule of thirds; instead of putting your subject at a rule of thirds intersection point, you put it closer to the edge of the frame, which serves to emphasize the emptiness.

You’ll end up with an attention-grabbing shot, one that feels both contemporary and timeless.

8. Don’t be afraid to go tight

Most photographers do landscape photography with wide-angle lenses. And in general, this works really well; you can capture the vastness of the scene while emphasizing foreground and background subjects.

That said…

It sometimes pays to zoom in tight using a telephoto lens (a 70-200mm or 100-400mm will do a good job).

This works especially well on relatively flat subjects with graphic lines: a distant waterfall, cracks in a canyon wall, overlapping mountains. Zooming in will compress the scene, so advice about adding depth tends to fly out the window, and that’s okay.

Instead, focus on using landscape compositional tools like the rule of thirds to create balance and flow. And as I emphasized at the beginning of this article, make sure to include a clear point of interest!

9. Use layers to help simplify the scene

Layers are one of my absolute favorite landscape photography composition techniques because they make scenes simpler, easily digestible, and all-around beautiful.

When you’re out with your camera, just look for a clear bottom layer, middle layer, and top layer (though adding more layers is fine, too!).

One of the great things about layered compositions is that they work regardless of your focal length or subject of interest. You can create layered wide-angle shots by incorporating clear foregrounds, midgrounds, and backgrounds into the composition.

And you can create layered telephoto shots by compressing distant elements (as I mentioned in the previous tip, overlapping mountains look great, but you can also layer trees, sand dunes, and more).

Not every composition is amenable to layering. But when you find a scene with repeating or overlapping elements, that’s a good sign you can get a layered shot – and when possible, I recommend you go for it!

10. Incorporate diagonal lines to add movement

This one’s a more advanced landscape composition tool, and the effect can be subtle – but when done right, it can level up a good photo to a great one.

You see, diagonal lines are an effective way to move the eye around the scene and add flow to a shot. They’ll carefully push the viewer toward the main subject, while also prompting them to have a fun little journey around your photo.

To get started, I’d recommend first identifying your main subject. This should be the focal point of your image, and the place you want the diagonal lines to lead.

Then walk around, looking for potential diagonals that point toward – not away! – from your subject. You’ll often need to get creative. Consider all your options: paths, lines of trees, fences, rivers, a shadow, even clouds!

Finally, compose your photo, including at least one diagonal line moving toward your subject (and feel free to use two, three, or four lines if you can find them).

Note that diagonal lines can be foreground leading lines, but they don’t have to be. It’s perfectly acceptable to find a diagonal line that starts far off in the distance as long as it moves toward your main subject.

11. Use geometry, especially triangles, to add flow and stability

In landscape photography, geometry is your friend.

Specifically, you can incorporate shapes, such as triangles, squares, and circles, into your compositions. These will help create both flow and stability, plus they just look very cool (especially when done with subtlety!).

For instance, consider the triangle, one of the most powerful shapes available to the landscape photographer. It includes diagonal lines and therefore adds plenty of movement. It also tends to be very stable thanks to its strong edges and wide base.

Circles are great, too – partial circles create nice curves for plenty of flow. And complete circles create eye-catching points of interest.

You don’t need to find full shapes in the landscape, by the way. It’s okay to use a somewhat circular rock, a vaguely triangular mountain, and so on. The point is to include shape-like elements when you can, without stressing too much about whether you have a complete shape or an implied one. That way, you create strong compositions that still feel natural.

Also, remember: When it comes to working with geometry in landscape photography composition, there are no hard and fast rules as to what works well. You can look for single bold shapes, you can look for multiple shapes that are similar, or you can look for several opposite shapes. Play around, and see what you can create!

12. Find natural frames to focus the viewer

As emphasized earlier in this article, foreground interest is a great way to add depth to landscape compositions.

But sometimes, you run into foreground elements that can’t quite work as a discrete compositional element…

…yet can still sit around the edges of your photo as a frame.

This is the landscape photography framing technique: You include tangential elements around the outside of an image and use them to direct the viewer toward the interesting midground and background.

For instance, you might include an overhanging branch toward the top of the image in order to guide the viewer toward the subject in the middle of the shot:

Or you might find a tunnel of rocks that leads the viewer toward the sunset in the background.

In wide-open spaces, finding frames can be tough. But if you’re shooting in a more chaotic landscape, you can often find trees or rocks to create a frame. In fact, it’s often these simple frames that take a good composition to the next level; they provide much-needed focus by showing the viewer exactly where to look (and when positioned carefully, they can also block out distracting elements).

Pro tip: When working with foreground frames, spend time experimenting with different apertures. A narrow aperture will help you capture lots of detail, while a wide aperture will blur the foreground frame for a cool creative effect.

13. Look for patterns to add compositional coherence

Patterns are instantly eye-catching, they’re a great way to add rhythm to your images, and they help landscape scenes feel more unified.

So whenever you’re out with your camera, keep an eye out for interesting patterns. Some patterns are very conspicuous, so you’ll spot them immediately – for instance, aspen trees standing in a row, or flowers dotting their way toward the horizon.

But other patterns are more subtle, and it’ll take some work to find them. A forest in fall may initially seem chaotic, but if you take the time to really stop and examine the leaves around you, you’ll start to see little runs of color.

Which leads me to another key point: Patterns can be composed of forms (e.g., several trees or rocks) or colors. Don’t restrict yourself to tonal patterns; use patterns of all types!

14. Work each scene before moving on

The world is beautiful and full of landscape photography opportunities – so it’s easy to get in the habit of capturing a quick image of each subject, then packing up and continuing the hunt for more photos.

But if you only ever capture the first composition that you see, you’ll miss out on other breathtaking images (many of which are better than your first attempt).

Instead of taking a single shot, I encourage you to work each scene. Commit to sticking around for a few minutes (or even a few hours). Capture that first shot, yes, but then keep going. Adjust your angle. Find different foreground elements that complement the background and lead the viewer into the scene.

A handy trick here is to walk twenty paces in each direction with your camera to your eye. That way, you can see how the foreground and background elements shift in relation to one another, and you’ll quickly notice other compositional opportunities (such as interesting frames or powerful juxtapositions of foreground and background).

Then, once you feel satisfied you’ve exhausted all possibilities and captured the best possible image, you can move on!

15. Try to portray scale

When you’re photographing gigantic landscape features – mountains, for instance, or oceans – it can be difficult for the viewer to get a sense of how big the elements actually are. And this can be a problem; in my experience, the more you can show scale in a landscape image, the better.

Fortunately, there’s a simple technique that allows you to give your landscape compositions a sense of scale time and time again: include a reference point, something that the viewer is familiar with and can use to gauge the size of the rest of the scene.

Natural reference points include lone trees, flowers, and branches, while human-made reference points include bridges, cars, roads, barns, houses, or even people standing (or walking) in the vicinity. In a pinch, you can even stand in the scene yourself!

16. Don’t forget about color

Color. It’s more than just eye candy in your photos; it’s a powerful tool in your composition arsenal. Often, we get so caught up in lines, shapes, and focal points that we forget the role color plays in our landscape shots. The mood, the emotion, the depth – color affects them all.

As you compose each landscape shot, take a moment to think about the colors present in your frame. Stick with 2-4 main colors to avoid overwhelming the viewer, and when you’re scouting a scene, be on the lookout for complementary colors; think red and green or blue and orange. They sit opposite each other on the color wheel and create a dynamic tension when placed together in a photo. Contrasting colors naturally draw the eye and can make your image pop.

But don’t exclude analogous color combinations, either! These are the colors that are adjacent on the wheel, like shades of blue and green. They create a sense of peace and can often give your photos a deeply tranquil mood.

Note that color, unlike framing, is something you can fine-tune during post-processing. Adjusting the hues or ramping up the saturation can enhance the natural color relationships in your scene, and you should always spend a bit of time working with these elements during photo editing. Of course, for the best results, you should always aim to get the colors right in camera and only use post-processing as a last resort.

17. Break the rules

Don’t feel you have to stick to the compositional rules and guidelines outlined above. As with all rules, they don’t always give the best result, and you can break them successfully!

Sometimes positioning the horizon along the center of the frame can produce a much more eye-catching photo, for instance. Yes, it breaks the rule of thirds, but the result is very powerful. And you can even place your main subject in the center of your frame for some intense symmetry.

Bottom line: Don’t be afraid to try out different compositions and experiment to see what looks best.

Landscape photography composition: final words

By now, you should have a solid understanding of the elements that go into creating a visually stunning and emotionally impactful landscape photo. But remember, the rules and tips are just a framework; the real magic happens when you start to apply your own vision and creativity.

Sure, composition may feel overwhelming at first, especially if you’re just dipping your toes into the world of landscape photography. But here’s the thing: The more you practice, the more intuitive it becomes. And before you know it, you’ll be capturing landscapes that really catch the eye!

Now over to you:

Which of these composition tips is your favorite? Which are you going to try first? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Landscape Photography Composition: 17 Expert Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.